It looks like this but off hand I have no idea what the size is. You will see 
here that the range of adjustment is
fairly small. Don't know if it is essentially the same shaft and just different 
cutters that make up the different
size ranges. That makes the most sense, I would think.

http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=6475

Randy

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Tom Hargrave
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2007 12:16 PM
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W108 4.5: The nightmare begins


Randy,

If it's a king pin reamer then it's adjustable.  I just need to know
what the adjustment range is.

Tom
www.kegkits.com

----Original Message----
From: R A Bennell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: 10/10/07 10:31 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W108 4.5: The nightmare begins
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Don't know if it would do you any good.  I assume there are different
sizes of this sort of thing. This one was
used on a 3 ton GMC of late 50's vintage if I recall correctly. Could
haul it out and let you know what size it
appears to be but I suspect it will be larger than a car might use.

Randy

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Tom Hargrave
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 5:52 PM
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W108 4.5: The nightmare begins


Are you interested in selling the reamer?

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924


-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of R A Bennell
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 5:43 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W108 4.5: The nightmare begins

Is this a job  for a pro? I remember my father doing king pins on a
truck of
some sort back when I was a mere lad.
He used a king pin reamer to do something - not sure if it is to make
them
fit well or if a worn one develops
ridges sort of like a cylinder does and one has to clean it up to avoid
future troubles. Do the new ones come
oversized to permit that sort of thing? I still have the reamer in my
tool
box but have never used it and likely
never will.

Randy

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin,
work
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 4:28 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W108 4.5: The nightmare begins


So how much are king pins?  Never messed with them before.

---
Kaleb C. Striplin
Cox Auto Trader
730 FSBO Supervisor

----- Original Message -----
From: "andrew strasfogel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 4:24 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W108 4.5: The nightmare begins


> Wandering all over the road might mean you need new king pins.  This
is
> bad
> (expensive!!) news if true...
>
> A worn out steering knuckle explains the banging through the steering
> column.  Not TOO expensive...
>
>
>
>
> On 10/5/07, David Bruckmann <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>
>> Peter, thank you in particular for your thorough reply.
>>
>> Can W108 steering coupling bushings be replaced without removing the
>> coupling from its home? I stuck my head under there and I see that it
is
>> the
>> original type with the clips. Looks as though it MIGHT be possible to
get
>> in
>> there with my hands, but not if the bushings require a lot of
persuasion
>> to
>> come out/go in.
>>
>> D.
>>
>> Peter Frederick wrote:
>> >
>> >Your front subframe mounts are shot.  Your steering coupler is shot.
>> >The upper diff mount (in the trunk)  is shot.
>> >
>> >Center driveline bearing will cause floor-pan vibration, so will bad
>> >u-joints.  Nice thing about the u-joints on that driveshaft is that
you
>> >can replace them, they are centered with clips.
>> >
>> >Open the hood and take a look at the subframe mount on the driver's
>> >side (since you can see it, the right side one is under the
battery).
>> >If the large bolt is not in the center of the hold, the mount is
gone.
>> >You can also check behind the front wheel to see if any of the
rubber
>> >is showing, likely not.  Big PITA, but not an undoable job.  Fix
before
>> >the locator rod on the right side gets broken.
>> >
>> >Excessive wheel play is a bad steering coupler -- you can get the
clips
>> >and sleeves to rebuild that one, later ones (and all replacements)
are
>> >swaged and have to be tossed.
>> >
>> >Check the mounting bolts on the steering box -- they come loose and
>> >eventually the box pulls off the frame.  Fix as soon as possible.
>> >
>> >Plan on a new tie rod, new drag link, and steering damper -- your's
are
>> >toast except for the one replaced.
>> >
>> >Good luck finding some place who can do a proper front end alignment
--
>> >once you take a look you will see what I mean.  MAKE SURE the shop
that
>> >does it KNOWS that the caster MUST be set with the spring straps on
the
>> >subframe, NOT the caster wheel on the upper trunion, or they will
screw
>> >the adjuster on the trunion too far and crush the grease seal,
causing
>> >the trunion to fail.
>> >
>> >You will need new rubber in the rear suspension -- upper diff mount
>> >(remember, this is a swing axle) is in the trunk under a cover.
When
>> >this is bad, as yours is, the arm rides on the frame, transmitting
all
>> >sorts of noise.  Lots of thumping, banging, excessive jacking, and
>> >lurching on turns.  you must lift the car onto jack stands to
replace,
>> >support the diff with a floor jack, unbolt the old mount center bolt
>> >and four small screws, install the new one (and may have to lower
the
>> >whole rear axle down).
>> >
>> >Also, the bushings in the control arms on both ends are bad, causing
>> >all sorts of road noise, wobbly rear end, and goofy steering.  you
>> >mgiht want to plan to do diff mount and all the bushings at one
time.
>> >
>> >Peter
>>
>> _______________________________________
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