YOU DID IT WRONG!!!! I see no mention of a beer involved in the process.
--R OK Don wrote: > I finally broke down and built Wilton's oil sucker - the "new" 300D > 2.5 has the pan under the engine, and I didn't want to mess with it to > change the oil. Went to Ace and bought 5 feet of 5/8" OD, 3/8" ID > fabric reinforced tubing (now $1.59 a foot), drilled a hole in the top > (behind the handle) of a 5 gal. plastic fuel can with a counter sink > bit. The bit was 5/8" dia. - worked great for the tubing. The tubing > fit the dip stick tube (inside) just right. Wrapped a bit of black > tape around the end of an old (OLD) tank vacuum hose so it fit the > pouring spout connection, and went to work. The plastic fuel tank > collapsed right away, but the oil also started flowing, so I let it > come. I stopped sucking every once in a awhile to check the level. > When I had about a gallon out (lucky guess), I poured it into a gallon > bottle, and went back to sucking - getting the last almost gallon out > of the engine. Seems that even the drastically collapsed fuel tank > holds at least a gallon, so this rig will work until I find a better > tank to use. > > On Thu, Sep 20, 2007 at 12:42 PM, wilton strickland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > >> HOMEMADE /$2 TOPSIDER/OIL SUCKER >> >> (This method of oil removal by suction works only if oil dipstick tube goes >> to lowest point in oil pan, as in a Mercedes. Oil below bottom of dipstick >> tube can't be removed by this method without sticking an oil evacuation tube >> down the dipstick tube to bottom of the oil pan. Mercedes engines since the >> 60's have been built with dipstick tubes to lowest point in the pan, >> specifically, to expedite removal of oil by suction. I don't know if >> dipstick tubes in other engines go to bottom of the pan.) >> >> EQUIPMENT/PARTS: >> >> 1. Vacuum cleaner (shop or domestic unit) with ITS hose >> >> 2. 5 gal plastic joint compound or detergent bucket (or appropriate size >> container strong enough not to collapse under vacuum cleaner suction) >> >> 3. ~ 5 feet of 5/8 inch OD plastic tubing with some fabric in the walls to >> help it resist collapsing due to suction and heat from the oil >> >> CONSTRUCTION: >> >> 1. Near the outer edge of the bucket's plastic top, cut a small hole >> slightly smaller than the 5/8 inch tube. Insert end of 5/8 inch tube snugly >> into this hole - NOT to the bottom of the bucket - only an inch or so into >> the top - enough to stay securely in place. (If the discharge end of the >> evacuation tube is below the oil level in the bucket, much bubbling and >> turbulence will occur in the oil when most of the oil has been removed from >> the engine, and the sucker sucks air. The turbulence may cause oil to be >> spattered near and drawn into the vac hose.) >> >> 2. Near the opposite edge of the bucket's top from the 5/8 inch tube, cut a >> hole slightly smaller than the suction end of the vac cleaner hose. Insert >> suction end of the vac cleaner hose snugly into this hole - NOT way down in >> the bucket - just past the top enough to stay securely in place. >> >> 3. Insert other end of 5/8 inch OD plastic tube snugly INTO TOP inch and a >> half or so of engine oil dipstick tube. (If you feel more comfortable by >> wrapping a bit of tape around the plastic tube to increase its size and make >> it fit more snugly INSIDE the dipstick tube, please do so.) >> >> 4. Attach other end of vac hose to the vac cleaner. >> >> UP-GRADED, FIRST CLASS UNIT: >> >> In lieu of plastic joint compound or detergent bucket, use 5 gal. kerosene, >> gasoline or other appropriate metal or plastic can with built-in pouring >> spout and filler opening. >> >> 1. Insert suction end of vac cleaner hose snugly into the can's pouring >> spout. >> >> 2. Insert/install end of 5/8 inch oil removal tube in the can's other >> opening. (I used PVC couplings/fittings of appropriate sizes to adapt >> filler opening for the 5/8 inch tube. I also used a short section of 1½ >> inch dia. PVC, installed with slight downward slope inside the top of the >> can to discharge the oil across the can as far as possible from the >> suction/vac opening. The 1½ inch PVC pipe inside the can also causes the >> air being removed from the engine after the siphoning action is broken to >> slow down enough to "release" small droplets of oil that may be suspended in >> it.) >> Insert suction end of this tube into top of dipstick tube. >> >> OIL REMOVAL: >> >> 1. Have engine at or near operating temp. >> >> 2. Loosen top of oil filter canister & lift it ½ inch or so to allow oil to >> run freely out of canister down into oil pan when vac starts. >> >> 3. Turn vac cleaner ON. >> >> 4. Change filter while oil flows into the receiver. (I can't get mine >> changed before the oil removal is finished.) >> >> 5. When satisfied that oil removal is complete/sufficient, lift end of 5/8 >> inch tube out of dipstick tube. (Turn end of tube upward and lift it upward >> to aid flow of any oil in the tube into the bucket.) >> >> 6. Turn vac cleaner OFF. >> >> 7. Don't forget to replenish oil in the engine! >> >> 8. Clean up - stow equipment. >> >> I have used this type sucker several times with excellent results. The >> difference between a "troubled" oil change and a very clean and quick oil >> change is the strength (resistance to collapse) of the oil evacuation tube. >> Collapse of this tube can prevent the flow of anything - air, oil, >> ANYTHING - into the bucket and can lead to the bucket's collapse if a "weak" >> container is used. >> >> My upgraded, first class sucker uses a metal kerosene can as the oil >> receiver, but I have used a joint compound bucket as the oil receiver >> several times with equal success. Because of the permanently enclosed top >> and pouring spout, the kerosene can makes dumping the oil much cleaner and >> easier, though - never have to touch the oil, and don't have the trouble of >> removing the top from a plastic container. >> >> Use 5/8 inch OD plastic tubing with some fabric in the walls to help it >> resist collapsing due to suction and heat from the oil. The clear, limber, >> plastic tubing is too weak - collapses easily. >> >> Loosen top of oil filter canister & lift it a half inch or so to allow oil >> to run freely out of canister down into oil pan when vac starts. >> >> Using the sucker has several advantages for me. The typical ones: not >> having to crawl under the car to get to the pan plug, not having to remove >> the belly pan on the 350SDL, not getting oil on me nor anything else, >> removal of more oil than by draining, ease of used oil disposal >> Additionally, because of my peripheral neuropathy, leading to loss of >> feeling and function in hands and fingers, it is very hard for me to handle >> small items such as nuts, bolts, etc. It is especially hard for me to put >> the slippery pan plug back in place. So far, by using the sucker to remove >> the oil and wearing rubber gloves while changing the filter, I could change >> my oil while wearing a tux. >> >> To confirm the effectiveness of my homemade oil sucker, a couple of times, >> after the sucker has "finished", I have removed the drain plug from the oil >> pan to see how much more oil may still have been in the pan. NO oil came >> out of the drain hole - NOT A DROP. With the drain method of oil removal, I >> have NEVER re-installed the drain plug without oil continuing to drip from >> the drain hole. Conclusion: THE SUCKER REMOVES MORE OIL THAN THE DRAIN >> METHOD, unless the vehicle is tilted to cause oil to collect away from the >> dipstick tube. >> >> Build it, and use it at your OWN risk. Mine works fine for me - don't know >> about yours - I don't have control of it. Don't forget: atmospheric >> pressure = 14.7 PSI, and "physics will win every time." IF YOU BLOCK THE >> OIL EVACUATION TUBE SO THAT NOTHING CAN FLOW INTO THE RECEIVER CONTAINER AND >> YOU CONTINUE TO PULL A VACUUM ON THE CONTAINER, THE CONTAINER WILL COLLAPSE. >> >> You don't need to create a true VACUUM in the oil receiver container. The >> vacuum cleaner is used to merely REDUCE pressure in the container so that >> atmospheric pressure can push (SIPHON) the oil out of the engine into the >> container. The vacuum cleaner is not meant to create a VACUUM in the >> container. If you create a true VACUUM in the container, the 14.7 pounds of >> atmospheric pressure on every square inch of the container exterior WILL >> COLLAPSE the container unless, of course, it is strong enough to withstand >> that pressure. Such a pressure vessel is not really needed to safely and >> cleanly suck oil out of the engine. A plastic joint compound bucket CAN do >> it very nicely -- just don't create a true VACUUM in the bucket. >> >> Wilton >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________ >> http://www.okiebenz.com >> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ >> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] >> >> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: >> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com >> >> > > > > _______________________________________ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
