so it's best to use some form of 'electric' drying oven
I think to use an old electric grill just over a pot with inside the
meteorite, all between 4 refractory brick.
I will try with 70-80°C for 5h.
My mother don't let me use the home oven :-)
anhydrous ethanol
I think is hard to find pure (96%). The solvent I used contains a lot of
different alcohol.
oil/grease is best applied while still slightly warm
The grease that I use is stable from -30 to 230°C so the temperature isn't a
trouble.
If the meteorite is warm the pores and the cracks are open so the hot grase
can go inside the meteorite and block the water at the best.
In a store I found a product that convert the rust and the surface in a
phosphate iron compound, but on the box there's write the surface become
bluish like the tipical metal used for the reed (cane) of the rifle and the
gun. The phosphate is very hard and stable. Can be interesting but I haven't
an ugly meteorite for try.
The product works on iron and steel but I don't know if it works on the iron
minerals of the meteorite.
Thanks, I will let you know about the results.
<><><><>
Francesco Moser
http://web.tiscali.it/francesco.moser/
IMCA #1510 www.imca.cc
"There's just one kind of man that you can trust,
that's a dead man, or an IMCA like me."
----- Original Message -----
From: "mark ford" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <meteorite-list@meteoritecentral.com>
Sent: Friday, October 21, 2005 9:50 AM
Subject: RE: [meteorite-list] rust eh eh :)
Hi Moser,
Better to use a lower temperature for a longer period of time than get it
too hot too quick, it takes time for moisture to percolate out of all the
pores in the material. I would think 100 degrees is a bit high. If you get
them too hot, you may start to alter the metals properties, at high
temperatures metal will start to oxidize and eventually you might eventually
destroy the widmanstatten structure).
Btw, don't use a gas oven, as gas releases lots of water when it burns, so
it's best to use some form of 'electric' drying oven. And your right,
oil/grease is best applied while still slightly warm so that the water
doesn't get chance to re-condense.
Btw IMHO, The best solvent to use is anhydrous ethanol (alcohol) since this
absorbs water, it helps in drying them out..
Best
Mark Ford
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Moser
Francesco
Sent: Thursday, October 20, 2005 10:19 PM
To: ZZ ML Meteorite-List
Subject: [meteorite-list] rust eh eh :)
Hi All,
yes you read well RUST, where?? on my Campo of course :))
I remove the rust with a steel brush after I use a metallic bruch with
alcohol, I don't know the correct english name for the type of product, it
is used like diluent for the syntetic painting. (butilic alcohol + toluene +
acetone).
After I put on the meteorite a lot of a silicon grease, with my Canyon
Diablo work very well, no rust for 1 year.
But I think is better to heat the Campo before apply the grease so the water
will kick out.
Anyone have an idea about the temperature and the time for a 1.5Kg Campo??
I think 80 - 100 °C for 3h can be fine, for you??
Thanks from me and my Campo.
Ciao
<><><><>
Francesco Moser
http://web.tiscali.it/francesco.moser/
IMCA #1510 www.imca.cc
There's just one kind of man that you can trust,
that's a dead man, or an IMCA like me.
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