I'd like to share some photography tips with list members that might help with 
photographing your meteorites.

  The first thing I would like to share is a silver reflector.
here are some pictures:
- 
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/16/Photographing_a_model_1.jpg/260px-Photographing_a_model_1.jpg

- http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2673/3843207418_17bd3e73bf_m.jpg
   Mainly used in portrait photography but works great for meteorites.  It is 
used to reflect soft light onto the subject(meteorite).  I use it to fill in 
the shadows because sunlight can make highlights and shadows harsh.  
I have a 5-in-1 reflector made by promaster.  They usually run about $35 
because you are paying for 4 different reflectors and a diffusion screen.

The second thing is custom white balancing.  Have you ever taking pictures in 
the shade or inside and the picture came out way too yellow or too blue?  This 
is because the auto-white balance on your camera didn't do so well.  Many 
digital camera's(Most SLR's) have a custom white balance setting.  Just simply 
hold up a white sheet of paper in the light you will be shooting in and take a 
picture of it.  Then find custom white balance and select the picture you took 
of the paper.  Now when you shoot in that light the picture will be properly 
white balanced.  This is a life saver for Nikon shooters because Nikon has 
terrible auto white balance.

The third thing is auto-blending.  For those of you who have SLR's you will 
notice that shooting at a higher F-stop like F1.8 or F2.8 is a lot sharper than 
shooting at a lower F-stop like F22.  The problem is, you might have to drop 
your F-stop to make sure the whole meteorite is in focus.  Fortunately, 
photoshop can take a batch of photos, align them, and then blend the sharpest 
plains of focus into one picture. To do this set your camera on a tripod and 
set it to Av(aperature mode) spin the wheel to drop your F-stop to as low as 
you can get it. Some lenses only drop to F3.5 which is still fine.  Then switch 
your lens to manual focus.  Focus until just the front part of your meteorite 
is in focus and take a picture, then keep taking pictures as you change the 
focus in small increments.  You should end up with 5 to 10 pictures with 
different parts of the meteorite in focus.  Open photoshop and the go 
File>Scripts>Load Files into Stack... Select all of the photos and be sure to 
check the box that says "Attempt To Automatically Align Source Images. Select 
ok and let photoshop align the images.  Then go under the tab "Window" and make 
sure "Layers" has a check next to it.  The layers box should be on the right 
side of your screen. All the pictures will be listed under layers. Select them 
all.  You can do this by holding ctrl key and clicking each one or click the 
first, then holding shift as you click the last.  Once they are all selected go 
to the "Edit" tab and select "Autoblend layers" and choose to autblend them as 
a stack.
Once it is done blending you need to click "Save as" and save it as a Jpeg 
because it will try to save it as something else.  Then close out of the image 
in photo shop, if it asks you if you want to save click NO.  Then you can open 
up the jpeg version you saved and edit it how you like (brightness/contrast 
etc..) or leave it as is. 
Here is an example i made with only 5 pictures blended:
http://s38.photobucket.com/albums/e145/phxerik/?action=view&current=blended.jpg

The fourth thing is highlight tone priority.  You can enable this in your 
custom functions for canon shooters.  I know Nikon has the setting but I don't 
know what it's called. 
This setting will make sure that your picture's highlights will not be blown 
out.  It also allows your processor to use all its bits.  My camera's have 
14bit processors but if Highlight tone priority is off the image only processes 
at 10 bits.  When i use HTP and get the full 14bits, this allows my picture to 
smooth out the changes in light to dark in my photos.  This makes everything 
shaded better, especially clouds!

The fourth and last thing is HDR photography(High Dynamic Range). You do not 
need a SLR to do this. Most point and shoot cameras can do this too! Sometimes 
a picture can be too dark in one part and too light in another. 
If you take one picture over exposed, one under exposed, and one properly 
exposed and blend them together it will allow all parts of your picture to be 
properly exposed.  
Here is an example: http://www.flickr.com/photos/johnmueller/2158395487/
an here is the link on how to do it: 
http://abduzeedo.com/how-create-hdr-photos-hdrphotomatix-tutorial

Enjoy!



                                          
______________________________________________
Visit the Archives at http://www.meteoritecentral.com/mailing-list-archives.html
Meteorite-list mailing list
Meteorite-list@meteoritecentral.com
http://six.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/meteorite-list

Reply via email to