Hi Jonathan:
I did a search for D96 Gun Oil on the internet. I contacted the
supplier of this product and he says they will not ship small amounts
to Canada.
He referred me to some Canadian Dealers but they did not reply to my e-
mails. Perhaps they don't stock the stuff anymore. Shipping stuff
like this across
the border can be problematic and also costly. I phoned a gun
collector friend of mine and he says they don't use gun oil anymore,
just cloth impregnated
wipes. He says in our cold climate when hunting seasons are open gun
oils tend to gum things up. He suggested using clear paste wax, auto
or floor types.
I wonder if anyone has tried this? This may be worth a try!
Cheers:
Ed
From very "WET" Vancouver Island!
On 7-Dec-10, at 10:59 PM, Jonathan E. Dongell wrote:
Ed,
I will sometimes use WD40 on previously treated/preserved irons, as
a twice-a-year
cleaner/sealer as a "rub-down" with a clean towel. But, I always
heat my specimens
to ~ 400 F for ~ 20 minutes, prior to every application (let them
cool first... ouch...).
I have noticed two things when using WD40 on my specimens:
1. it appears to be, at best, only a temporary rust retardant.
2. it does not behave as a 100% water-repellant oil-based product
does; in fact,
it can (in my opinion) emulsify with water/moisture in the specimen,
due to the aliphatic
component and/or the wetting agent used in WD40.
The later # 2, is why I always insist on heating specimens that
receive WD40. You must
remove any moisture from within your specimen, or you will risk
continued degradation
of your specimen BENEATH THE SURFACE over time (in my opinion).
The only other reason I might use WD40 is a personal preference. It
gives certain irons
a slightly darker, almost black-iron oxide or 'fusion-crust' tone or
coloration (instead of
a shiny, or a gun metal blue, or etc...) with continued usage.
However, this same look,
is why some collectors DON'T like to use WD40.
That said, I would never use WD40 on a "severe ruster". There are
much better products
(many have already been named on this listing) for retarding rust.
But, NEVER apply any
of these products (in my opinion) to a specimen (especially a
'severe ruster') until you:
1. remove as much of the alkalis and/or salts as is possible from
specimen
2. remove as much ferric oxide as is possible, or convert as much
ferric oxide to
ferrous oxide (via chemical or electrico-chemical treatment) as is
possible
3. apply either a chemical or an electrico-chemical treatment
process to stabilize
other minerals/metals (when necessary).
4. remove as much (better yet, all) moisture as is possible from
specimen.
ONLY THEN should you apply your rust prevention product of choice.
Remember,
these specimens are rusting for a reason. Most severe rusters have
come from
severe (sometimes anaerobic) environments. You must remove all the
above rust
'contributing causes' prior to sealing any of these types of
specimen (my opinion).
Skipping any of the above steps, and applying a rust preventative,
will surely "lock in"
these potential 'rust mechanisms' within your specimen, which in
fact, will create a
more corrosive condition, and hasten the demise of your specimens.
One last note...
I continue to waiver on this one...
Whether it is nobler to preserve the original specimen's "as is"
qualities,
or is it nobler still, to preserve the specimen from deteriorating
away,
thus altering forever, the "as is" quality. Alas, there is the
rub.....
Just my opinions... Best of Luck ;>}
Jonathan Dongell
IMCA 3922
----- Original Message ----- From: "Ed Majden" <epmaj...@shaw.ca>
To: <meteorite-list@meteoritecentral.com>
Sent: Monday, December 06, 2010 9:28 AM
Subject: [meteorite-list] List of known Rusters?
Does anyone have a list of known Iron meteorite rusters? The
sample of Nantan China I have split into several pieces. I have
been using WD40 on the pieces to retard further problems but this
does not work all that well. Have to repeat this every few weeks!
Ed Majden
Courtenay B.C.
Asteroid Majden 142368 (Thanks to Rob Matson)
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