Another reason the OEMs put alternator control in the ECU is for strategies 
like:
- idle up if its asking for max output from the alternator
- idle up when voltage drops
- use alternator activity as an input to stabilizing idle; an alternator is a 
constant power load thus tends to load down the engine when idle drops

Here's an interesting quote:
"If the ... charge lights come on during revving of the engine 
 then it's a sign that the carbon alternator brushes require replacing...About 
half of the auto electric shops in your local yellow pages sell 
 carbon alternator brushes and copper solenoid starter contacts for 
 about $5/pair. " 

http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.toyota.trucks/browse_thread/thread/43bf5b94cb8a094c

That suggests output drops at high RPM due to worn brushes.



--- On Sun, 9/7/08, Bill Cardell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
From: Bill Cardell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: More alternator stuff
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [email protected]
Date: Sunday, September 7, 2008, 7:33 PM

Another option might be to go back to the trouble-free 94-97 alternator,
before Mazda in their infinite wisdom decided the ecu needed to control
the alternator based on air temp and rpm inputs. The theory is the
intake air temp will tell the ecu the battery's temperature (in the
trunk!).  Just need to move a wire or two and the earlier piece fits
right on there with self contained regulation. 


TurboDog's Dad
Bill Cardell
www.flyinmiata.com 
1-800-FLY-MX5S
970-464-5600 tech support
Don't miss our Open House! August 14-17

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ian McCloghrie
Sent: Sunday, September 07, 2008 8:24 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: More alternator stuff


As you may recall from my previous email to the power list on this
topic, I've been having some problems with alternator output on my 99
FM2 w/ Hydra.

The symptoms are that, in certain conditions, the system voltage sags to
less than 13 volts (12.5, sometimes as low as 11.8).  Basically this
happens with all electrical accessories on (blower on high, both Spal
fans, AC fan clutch, rear defroster, headlights), and at both low RPMs
(less than 1500) and high (above 5000).

Jason Cuadra and I did some investigating today and came up with some
more info:

- It doesn't seem to be a problem with the Hydra alternator control.
The Hydra claims it's driving the field coil as hard as it will go, and
even clamping the field coil to max by just hooking it to the power line
makes no difference.

- Hooking up an oscilloscope shows that the diodes in the alternator are
all working.

- With a clamp-on ammeter, the alternator will make ~ 70 amps at 3000
RPM.  At 800-1000 RPM it's only making 50ish amps.  At 6000 RPM it's
only making 40ish amps.

- The alternator belt was a bit loose (presumably from having stretched
after being replaced), but tightening it made no difference to the
current output.

~70 amps is about what it's rated at, and I'm guessing I just need to
turn up the idle a bit to get it to work better at the low end.

The high end is a different story, though.  I think the voltage is
sagging enough that the GReddy boost controller isn't working, because
above 5000 RPM with the accessories on I'm only getting 7 psi (the
mechanical wastegate setting).

I'm pretty sure the high RPM voltage sagging isn't normal, because I
don't think the car used to do it.  Any thoughts on what might be
causing it?  Jason speculated that it might be failing slip rings?
Does anyone know if you can replace them without replacing the whole
alternator?  I can't be the only person to put Spals on an NB and then
try to take it to redline at night with the AC on, can I?  (When you do
this it's really noticable because the headlights get a lot dimmer)

On another topic, does anyone know of a higher current OEM-style
alternator that fits the NB?  The aftermarket modified alternators gain
higher current do it at the expense of low RPM operation, which is
already marginal so I'd rather not push that farther if I don't have
to.

--Ian
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