I did notice and I thought "FOOM".  

-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Alster [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 2:18 PM
To: Wiseman, Curtis J; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [email protected]
Subject: RE: Help diagnosing an intake leak

Notice I specified unlit.  It is scary but I have had a few responses
through the years about how do you not burn things!!  



Larry
 
White Knight      1991 Crystal White   #99 CSP
Silver Bullet        1992 Silverstone     #17 SM2  FM I+ Turbo
Honey B             1992 Sunburst Yellow #99 SM2L  JR Supercharger
Whooosh           2004 Titanium Mazdaspeed MX-5
 
LowCountry Miata  http://www.lowcountrymiataclub.net
Masters Miata
RAGS 074


-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Wiseman, Curtis J
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 3:13 PM
To: Larry Alster; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [email protected]
Subject: RE: Help diagnosing an intake leak

Do you like the "running with scissors" method too? :-)

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Larry Alster
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 2:04 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [email protected]
Subject: RE: Help diagnosing an intake leak

Unlit propane torch is my favorite method.



Larry
 
White Knight      1991 Crystal White   #99 CSP
Silver Bullet        1992 Silverstone     #17 SM2  FM I+ Turbo
Honey B             1992 Sunburst Yellow #99 SM2L  JR Supercharger
Whooosh           2004 Titanium Mazdaspeed MX-5
 
LowCountry Miata  http://www.lowcountrymiataclub.net
Masters Miata
RAGS 074


-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Matt Bennett
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 10:43 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Help diagnosing an intake leak

After what Ray pointed out to me (below), I looked at some old DLL logs
and saw that my Idle MAP reading that is now about 70 used to be in the 40
range.  So I slapped myself around a bit and started to look for a vacuum
leak.  I haven't found anything particularly bad.

Anyone have any tip or tricks on looking for an intake leak?  I tried
pressurizing the intake to a few PSI with my compressor and listening for
hissing, but it has been really hard to localize- possibly going through
an open intake valve?.  One thing that I was wondering- how much of the
stock 1.8l engine's cycle has all of the intake valves closed?  I did find
a better place to put the fuel pressure regulator's vacuum hose, but
wiggling stuff around hasn't brought me any closer to bringing the vacuum
down to a more appropriate value.

Regards,

Matt
'96 with prototype Ubercharger


On Sun, September 7, 2008 1:12 pm, Ray Ayala wrote:
> The log shows the idle switch signal on even when the map signal show that
> either the throttle is open or there's a big intake air leak.  The idle
> switch signal kills the fuel completely when rpm is above the idle control
> range (~1850 rpm).
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Matt Bennett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2008 7:39 PM
> Subject: Bucking, DLL help
>
>
>> Howdy folks,  I'm trying to figure out my latest issue, I seem to
>> remember
>> this type of problem being discussed before, but I didn't take adequate
>> notes.  Right now, the most annoying problem I have is that my car has
>> some very abrupt on/off transitions- also the "idle oscillation" is
>> pretty
>> bad.  You can see both of these characteristics in this (really long)
>> log:
>>
>> <http://www.hazmat.com/~mjb/projects/miata/DataLogs/2008-09-06a.bin>
>>
>> The vitals on this car:
>> 1996 with prototype Ubercharger (intercooled, with air temperature
>> sensor)
>> 550cc Injectors
>> Vishnu Dual feed fuel rail
>> Link ECU (non OBD- I believe that this is referred to as a 94-95 Link)
>> AEM WB02
>> Stock engine internals
>> Setup for (but not installed) NB02
>>
>>
>> Another thing I'm thinking of- I realize that tuning on the road is
>> difficult, dangerous, and often runs afoul of the law- has anyone
>> created
>> a script for the most cost effective way to use a dyno?  The one that I
>> can rent time on is a brake dyno (not a Dynojet).  I want to tune for 1)
>> emissions and 2) power with drivability- and 1 and 2 don't have to be
>> the
>> same map :)
>>
>> The vast majority of the adjustments appear to be with fuel- is it
>> because
>> changing fuel zones is easier and more effective than adjusting timing?
>> Or is timing just a lot more dangerous to play with.
>>
>> With the 94-95 link, can I have both WB and NB O2 sensors logged? I
>> realize only one will actually be adjusting settings.  If I tune for one
>> sensor, will I need to change maps when I move between sensors, or can I
>> just do it through the Link keypad?
>>
>> I realize I need to sit down with the tuning manuals from FM- I went
>> looking on Flyin' Miata's site and didn't find the Link tuning manual-
>> I've got an old copy- what is the latest revision?
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>> Matt Bennett
>> Austin, TX
>> '96 with prototype Ubercharger
>> _______________________________________________
>> Miatapower mailing list
>> [email protected]
>> http://list.miatapower.net/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/miatapower
>



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