Could one of the radiator hoses be collapsed internally?

Sam

On Mon, Apr 11, 2011 at 8:24 PM, Ross Kuhns <[email protected]> wrote:

> Well, if the pump shaft broke or something, I still think you should just
> pull the belt and see if it spins very freely, or grinds or does some damned
> 'wrong' thing.
>
> Didn't you have the timing belt done recently? did they do the water pump
> too? should be under warranty 'if' it is the pump...
>
>
> Ross
>
> On Apr 11, 2011, at 9:13 PM, Bruce Labitt wrote:
>
> > On 4/11/2011 9:00 PM, Donni wrote:
> >> Sounds water pump-y.....
> >>
> >>
> >
> > Grumble.  So it would seem.  Anything else I *should* be fixing while I'm
> in there?
> > 1) water pump
> > 2) timing belt / seals
> > 3) ?
> >
> > Bruce
> >
> >> On Apr 11, 2011, at 7:33 PM, Bruce Labitt<[email protected]>
>  wrote:
> >>
> >>> On 4/11/2011 7:05 PM, Larry Alster wrote:
> >>>> For the freeze plug to be your problem you would have to be losing
> fluid
> >>>> from the system.  Are you??
> >>>>
> >>> No, I have no visible leak.  I am unaware of any leak.  My first
> indication of trouble was an overheat this spring.  I let it idle to warm
> up.  While I was doing something else I noticed the rad cap geysering.  I
> shut it down rather quickly.  When it cooled down, I refilled the radiator.
>  Fired it up again and it overheats.
> >>>
> >>> Tried running without the cap.  Did not see evidence of obvious flow in
> radiator.  No obvious bubbles like a bad head gasket leak to coolant.
> >>>
> >>> Bruce
> >>>>
> >>>> Larry Alster
> >>>>
> >>>> 91 Miata  White Knight
> >>>> 92 Miata  Silver Bullet
> >>>> 92 Miata  Honey B
> >>>> 04 MSM MX-5 Whooosh
> >>>> 06 WRX STi Subie
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> -----Original Message-----
> >>>> From: [email protected]
> >>>> [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Bruce Labitt
> >>>> Sent: Monday, April 11, 2011 7:04 PM
> >>>> To: MiataPower
> >>>> Subject: Re: Diagnosing Bad Water Pump, or Heater Core or?
> >>>>
> >>>> On 4/11/2011 12:16 PM, Donni Howell wrote:
> >>>>> I may have missed it among all the replies, but I didn't
> >>>>> see any mention of core plugs (freeze plug/expansion plug
> >>>>> or whatever you choose to call them). I had a '96 that
> >>>>> would overheat all the time. I chased the problem for
> >>>>> almost a year. Replaced radiator, cap, had recently
> >>>>> replaced water pump. Nothing worked and I had given up. I
> >>>>> lost some coolant but never found a leak.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> One day while doing some suspension work on the left side
> >>>>> of the car, I noticed a rusty streak on the side of the
> >>>>> block - under the exhaust manifold. I followed that up to
> >>>>> a hole in the block where a core plug used to live. It was
> >>>>> a hidden leak that must have burned off any trace of water
> >>>>> while driving, so I never saw any water on the ground. I
> >>>>> replaced it with one from Mazda (2 from NAPA wouldn't fit
> >>>>> for some reason) and problem solved.
> >>>>>
> >>>> Nahh, did not even think about freeze plugs.  Did you
> >>>> replace them with the engine in the car?
> >>>>
> >>>>> On Sun, Apr 10, 2011 at 9:58 PM, bill zimmerman
> >>>>> <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>>   wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>>     Now we're at the root of the problem, why did it
> >>>>>     overheat, not because of
> >>>>>     the heater core. It may have had a bad radiator,
> >>>>>     leaking and you didn't
> >>>>>     notice it, or it might be a bad water pump, also
> >>>>>     leaking and you didn't
> >>>>>     notice it, either way, low on coolant and overheating.
> >>>>>     Very good chance you
> >>>>>     have a warped head and leaking head gasket at this
> >>>>>     point, check for water in
> >>>>>     the oil, oil residue in the radiator, and do a
> >>>>>     compression check. Go forward
> >>>>>     from there, from the way you describe it I'm pretty
> >>>>>     sure you are going to
> >>>>>     find a head gasket problem.  BZ
> >>>>>
> >>>>>     -----Original Message-----
> >>>>>     From: [email protected]
> >>>>>     <mailto:[email protected]>
> >>>>>     [mailto:[email protected]
> >>>>>     <mailto:[email protected]>] On Behalf
> >>>>>     Of Bruce Labitt
> >>>>>     Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2011 7:59 PM
> >>>>>     To: [email protected]
> >>>>>     <mailto:[email protected]>
> >>>>>     Subject: Re: Diagnosing Bad Water Pump, or Heater Core or?
> >>>>>
> >>>>>     On 4/10/2011 7:42 PM, bill zimmerman wrote:
> >>>>>     >   Late coming in on this and have not read other posts
> >>>>>     but if your problem
> >>>>>     >   came after any cooling system work, hose
> >>>>>     replacement, etc, make sure you
> >>>>>     >   don't have an air lock in the system, which
> >>>>>     frequently will result in no
> >>>>>     >   heat from the heater while everything else functions
> >>>>>     normally. Would not
> >>>>>     >   suspect a water pump problem if the motor is not
> >>>>>     overheating or signs of
> >>>>>     >   leakage around the pump.  BZ
> >>>>>     >
> >>>>>
> >>>>>     Original problem - overheat - radiator cap let go -
> >>>>>     coolant
> >>>>>     everywhere.  Replaced cap, added water - trouble ever
> >>>>>     since.  Engine overheats.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>     Could be air lock.  How do you get rid of it?  I used a
> >>>>>     coolant funnel attached to radiator cap.  Attempted to
> >>>>>     squeeze hoses...  Car is not level right now.  Front
> >>>>>     end is
> >>>>>     on jackstands.  Problem?
> >>>>>
> >>>>>     >   -----Original Message-----
> >>>>>     >   From: [email protected]
> >>>>>     <mailto:[email protected]>
> >>>>>     >   [mailto:[email protected]
> >>>>>     <mailto:[email protected]>] On Behalf
> >>>>>     Of Bruce Labitt
> >>>>>     >   Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2011 7:22 PM
> >>>>>     >   To: [email protected]
> >>>>>     <mailto:[email protected]>
> >>>>>     >   Subject: Re: Diagnosing Bad Water Pump, or Heater
> >>>>>     Core or?
> >>>>>     >
> >>>>>     >   On 4/10/2011 5:25 PM, Ross Kuhns wrote:
> >>>>>     >>   If the hoses are only a year old, they should come off;
> >>>>>     >>   take a pair of slotted type pliers/grips and you can
> >>>>>     >>   usually work them back and forth a touch as you pull -
> >>>>>     >>   tool is set perpendicular to the pipe/hose. Of course
> >>>>>     >>   don't squeeze too hard, those pipes are soft. If
> >>>>>     you try
> >>>>>     >>   to confirm flow thru the core, make sure not to use too
> >>>>>     >>   much psi, system doesn't run under too much
> >>>>>     pressure (what
> >>>>>     >>   13psi?).
> >>>>>     >>
> >>>>>     >>   Ross
> >>>>>     >>
> >>>>>     >>
> >>>>>     >>
> >>>>>     >>   On Apr 10, 2011, at 4:34 PM, Ken Bogart wrote:
> >>>>>     >>
> >>>>>     >>>   I would flush the heater core to verify flow. If its
> >>>>>     >>>   blocked and needs replacement, a temporary bypass will
> >>>>>     >>>   certainly work to keep you on the road.
> >>>>>     >>>
> >>>>>     >>>
> >>>>>     >>>   Ken Bogart
> >>>>>     >>>   -----------------------------------------------------
> >>>>>     >>>   96 Montego Blue FFS Coldside (His)
> >>>>>     >>>   97 Black&    Tan (Hers)
> >>>>>     >>>   90 Crystal White (sons)
> >>>>>     >>>   ------------------------------------------------------
> >>>>>     >>>   http://www.miatacare.com<http://www.miatacare.com/>
> >>>>>     >>>   http://www.cincimiata.com<http://www.cincimiata.com/>
> >>>>>     >>>
> >>>>>     http://www.bcchallenger.org<http://www.bcchallenger.org/>
> >>>>>     >>>   MiataMail.com<http://MiataMail.com <http://miatamail.com/>>
>    list owner
> >>>>>     >>>
> >>>>>     >>>
> >>>>>     >>>   On Sun, Apr 10, 2011 at 2:32 PM, Bruce Labitt
> >>>>>     >>>   <[email protected]
> >>>>>     <mailto:[email protected]>
> >>>>>     >>>   <mailto:[email protected]
> >>>>>     <mailto:[email protected]>>>    wrote:
> >>>>>     >>>
> >>>>>     >>>        I'm trying to diagnose if I have either a bad
> >>>>>     water
> >>>>>     >>>        pump, or just a clogged heater core.  The
> >>>>>     hose at the
> >>>>>     >>>        output of the heater core has been spliced to
> >>>>>     insert
> >>>>>     >>>        a GM temperature sensor in the line.  [Other
> >>>>>     than the
> >>>>>     >>>        temp sensor splice, the cooling system is stock.]
> >>>>>     >>>         The GM sensor is reading correctly - it
> >>>>>     reads cold
> >>>>>     >>>        and the heater line *is* cold. However, at
> >>>>>     the back
> >>>>>     >>>        of the head, the sensor which goes to the
> >>>>>     dash reads
> >>>>>     >>>        very hot (after the engine has warmed up, of
> >>>>>     course).
> >>>>>     >>>         It is as if there is no flow out the back of
> >>>>>     the head.
> >>>>>     >>>
> >>>>>     >>>        Things I've tried:
> >>>>>     >>>        0.  Removed thermostat, put housing back.  Still
> >>>>>     >>>        overheats.  Have new tstat, but have not
> >>>>>     installed.
> >>>>>     >>>        1.  Remove GM sensor splice, and inspect the
> >>>>>     inline
> >>>>>     >>>        housing.  Can see daylight through the hose
> >>>>>     >>>        connections. Conclusion: temp sensor housing
> >>>>>     is not
> >>>>>     >>>        clogged and not impeding coolant flow.
> >>>>>     >>>        2.  Added classic coolant flush tee in place
> >>>>>     of the
> >>>>>     >>>        inline temp sensor.  Flushed 12 gallons thru
> >>>>>     system.
> >>>>>     >>>         Pretty ugly looking coolant, if I must say
> >>>>>     so.  It
> >>>>>     >>>        still does not quite look like clean water,
> >>>>>     but it is
> >>>>>     >>>        far more water like than before.
> >>>>>     >>>        3.  Put back GM temp sensor.
> >>>>>     >>>        4.  Refilled with water.  Installed a burp
> >>>>>     bucket on
> >>>>>     >>>        radiator, ran engine.  Filled bucket 1/3 way.
> >>>>>      Bottom
> >>>>>     >>>        rad hose does not seem like it is full of
> >>>>>     coolant.
> >>>>>     >>>         Feels like it is not uniformly hot.  Tried
> >>>>>     squeezing
> >>>>>     >>>        hoses, etc to burp.  Not much happened with
> >>>>>     respect
> >>>>>     >>>        to coolant level. Engine heated up - back of head
> >>>>>     >>>        sensor showed quite warm - heater core loop quite
> >>>>>     >>>        cool to the touch.
> >>>>>     >>>
> >>>>>     >>>        What I'm going to do next:
> >>>>>     >>>        1.  Bypass heater core.  Is there an 'easy'
> >>>>>     way to
> >>>>>     >>>        get these hoses off?  I cut them when I
> >>>>>     replaced them
> >>>>>     >>>        last summer. Are they 'welded' on by now?
> >>>>>     >>>        2. Maybe, flush core, if above works.
> >>>>>     >>>
> >>>>>     >>>        Anything else?
> >>>>>     >>>
> >>>>>     >>>        _______________________________________________
> >>>>>     >>>        Miatapower mailing list
> >>>>>     >>>   [email protected]
> >>>>>     <mailto:[email protected]>
> >>>>>     >>>   <mailto:[email protected]
> >>>>>     <mailto:[email protected]>>
> >>>>>     >>>
> >>>>>     http://list.miatapower.net/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/miatapower
> >>>>>     >>>
> >>>>>     >>>
> >>>>>     >>>   _______________________________________________
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> >>>>>     <mailto:[email protected]><mailto:
> [email protected]
> >>>>>     <mailto:[email protected]>>
> >>>>>     >>>
> >>>>>     http://list.miatapower.net/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/miatapower
> >>>>>     >   Well, I didn't quite do things in order.  I flushed the
> >>>>>     >   heater core.  (Pulled heater hoses, attached garden hose
> >>>>>     >   with anti-backflow to one side, attached 6 foot hose to
> >>>>>     >   bucket on the other side.)  Nasty, but eventually
> >>>>>     ran sort
> >>>>>     >   of clear.  So it is NOT the heater core.  Loads of
> >>>>>     water ran
> >>>>>     >   through it - it does not appear to be a restriction.  No
> >>>>>     >   water in the cabin, either - thank goodness.
> >>>>>     >
> >>>>>     >   Then I back flushed the head.  In the water neck in
> >>>>>     the back
> >>>>>     >   of the head - out the other pipe to the heater core.
> >>>>>     >
> >>>>>     >   Hooked everything up again.  Filled through burping
> >>>>>     funnel.
> >>>>>     >   No apparent flow through the core.  However, the
> >>>>>     thermostat
> >>>>>     >   is NOT installed.
> >>>>>     >
> >>>>>     >   Is the thermostat required for the heater core to
> >>>>>     get water
> >>>>>     >   flow?
> >>>>>     >
> >>>>>     >   I have a standard new Stant thermostat.  Do I need
> >>>>>     to drill
> >>>>>     >   out the 'jiggler'?  Hole size?  Hole is up, correct?
> >>>>>     >
> >>>>>     >   Is there a good test for a water pump?  Looks like I'm
> >>>>>     >   running out of ideas.  Carried off 50 gallons of
> >>>>>     'water'.
> >>>>>     >   What a fruitless day.
> >>>>>     >
> >>>>>     >   Got insight?
> >>>>>     >
> >>>>>     >   Thanks
> >>>>>     >   _______________________________________________
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> >>>>>     >
> >>>>>     >
> >>>>>
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> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>> --
> >>>>> "It is rightly acknowledged that people of faith have no
> >>>>> monopoly of virtue..."
> >>>>> -Queen Elizabeth II
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
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