Hi Eric,
I also use a 3 phase capacitor excited induction motor. Just be 
carefull not to have too much load in the dump loads or the field 
will collapse and lose excitation. I have a 3 hp motor, 1800 rpm 
rated running at ~2300 rpm. When I put the 3 16 ohm loads in at first 
I had them in wye on all 3 phases, but that didn't work and the 
system would freewheel after loosing excitation. So I went to the 3 
16 ohm loads in series across only two legs.  This scheme should 
actually work more reliably with a PM type alternator or a powered 
field type alternator.

More details of my system are at the following link (not updateded 
for this new mod) http://h-hydro.com/Aspen_Hollow_Hydro.html

  Joe


--- In [email protected], [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> Hello,
> 
> Very good description of your system.
> Very interristing for me in direct application !
> Thanks a lot
> 
> I've got the same system of your 
> 
> I don't use all the power i can use because of the dumps load who 
are
> limited in power. The dump loads are standard 240V 3000W water
> heaters on a pressure tank.(3 phases 400V/240V standard electric 
boiler)
> But y use them in 24V so only 300W is used.
> If i use them on the 240V line, i will dump 9000W (only 1300W are OK
> for me)
> I've got the solid state relays in stock ! and the resistors too !
> (3 phases relays with 3-32V DC command( internal 40VDC protection)
> Carlo gavazzi or crouzet)
> 
> So i will try this arrangement soon.
> My generator is an old induction motor used in generator with 
capacitors.
> What is your ?
> 
> Regards
> Eric
> 
> 
> ----Message d'origine----
> >A: [email protected]
> >De: "Joseph Hartvigsen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Date: Fri, 16 Dec 2005 20:25:11 -0000
> >Sujet: [microhydro] Re: Alternator recommendations
> >
> >I agree with Rob that for small systems it is much simpler and more
> >reliable to regulate the power rather than the water flow. Most of
> >these small systems will be used for battery charging, but the 
power
> >may be delivered as AC at higher voltage. In such cases there is an
> >easy way to regulate the system by putting the dump load across 
the AC
> >line rather than the DC. 
> >
> >Rather than deal in general terms I'll explain how my recently
> >modified system is set up.
> >
> >Power comes from the turbine driven induction motor as 3 phase AC 
at
> >about 167V. 
> >
> >[A side note: It is at 167V because it then goes to 3 transformers
> >setup as 240V (delta) primaries and 32V wye/star secondaries then 
to a
> >3 phase bridge rectifier with the output connected to a 48V (56V
> >typical) battery bank. Unlike single phase, where the RMS voltage 
of
> >the rectified sinewave DC output is exactly the same as the RMS AC
> >input, in 3 phase the DC output voltage is 1.35 times the leg to 
leg
> >AC voltage. So, the battery clamps the rectifier output to 48-56V
> >depending on state of charge, which means the AC phase to phase 
input
> >is ~52/1.35 = 38.6Vac, which means each of the transformer 
secondaries
> >forming the wye/star is 38.6/sqrt(3) = 22.3Vac, that means the
> >primaries are 240*22.3/32 = 167V. If I had used nominal 24V output
> >transformers in wye to the 3 phase bridge, the primaries would run
> >closer to the rated voltage.  24*1.35*sqrt(3) = 56.1V  ]
> >
> >I used a solar charge controller, Morningstar TS-45 and configured 
it
> >in diversion load mode with its inputs connected to the battery +/-
> >and outputs connected to two resistors in series. These resistors 
can be
> >relatively low wattage, sized for only 30-50mA. For example with 
60V
> >peak battery equalization voltage, split across two resistors 
50mA*30V
> >= 1.5W  and 30V/0.05A = 600ohm.  So you could go with two standard
> >value 680 ohm or even 1k-ohm resistors rated at 5W or 10W 
connected in
> >series and connected across the TS-45 load +/- terminals. Clearly 
this
> >won't dissipate much power, but it does provide a 24-28Vdc signal
> >between the load (-) terminal and the point between the two 
resistors
> >which I use to fire AC solid state relays (SSRs). If you have a 12 
or
> >24V battery bank you can fire the 3-32Vdc triggered type AC SSR
> >directly from the TS-45 output terminals. If you have higher than a
> >48V battery bank use more of the resistors in series and take the 
SSR
> >trigger (+) signal from the opposite lead of the resistor 
connected to
> >the (-) terminal.
> >
> >Now, whenever the battery bank voltage is at the control limit, the
> >TS-45 in trying to dump power actually just sends a signal to 
trigger
> >the SSRs. The SSRs are connected to AC line voltage from the hydro 
on
> >one side, and a load resistor on the other side. You can find these
> >relays rated to 25A (using a heat sink) at 240V for about $20 each 
at
> >most electrical supply places. 
> >
> >I had previously used some old oven and drier heating elements, but
> >they took up too much space on the wall. So I put three 300W 16ohm
> >edgewound and enamel coated resistors in series across the 167V 
from
> >the hydro. That will dump in my case ~580W, but it is easy enough 
to
> >size these resistors to dump what power you need at the generator 
line
> >voltage.
> >
> >I purchased the resistors from digikey.com The 300W version are 
$16.48
> >each, part number FVE-300-xx (xx is resistance in ohms from 0.5, 
1.2,
> >2.0, 5.0, 8.0, 10, 12, 16, and 20). A larger 1000W resistor (black
> >silicone finish rather than enamel coated) is available for  $51.50
> >each, part number FSE1000-xxx (-.25, .50, 1.0, 3.5, 4.5, 10, 15). 
Both
> >also have a mounting kit available.  Of course if you have a 
useful AC
> >load of appropriate power and voltage rating that can be connected 
and
> >disconnected such as a water heater use it.
> >
> >So, in simple terms, the PV load controller senses battery voltage,
> >triggers SSRs which connect an the AC diversion load across the  
lines
> >from the hydro.  
> >
> >   Joe
> >
> >   http://h-hydro.com
> >
> >
> >--- In [email protected], [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> >>
> >> A quick general note regarding regulation. It is my experience 
that
> >in smaller 
> >> systems regulation is best done at the electrical output end 
rather
> >then water 
> >> intake end. A power diverter using IGBT or TRIAC power elements, 
or
> >even 
> >> relays, is by far the cheapest and most reliable way to govern 
the
> >output of < 
> >> 5 kilowatt output systems. In the < 100 volt range these units 
are
> >available 
> >> off the shelf from many vendors, while the 120V and up systems 
are
> >more costly 
> >> and somewhat harder to to source. At the end of the day they are
> >still a better 
> >> investment if only for the reason that you might still want one 
even
> >with a 
> >> water flow diverter installed, in case the valve sticks open.
> >> 
> >> Rob
> >> 
> >> 
> >> 
> >> Quoting tom kasmer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>:
> >> 
> >> > 
> >> > 
> >> > 
> >> > 
> >> > 
> >> > 
> >> > using a PM motor as a generator has the following
> >> > 
> >> > tenet. It has
> >> > 
> >> > no regulation mechanism other than shaft speed, so
> >> > 
> >> > here's what I suggest. You could rig up a smart bypass
> >> > 
> >> > of the flow to regulate the speed so as to regulate
> >> > 
> >> > the output power. Im sure that a magnetically coupled
> >> > 
> >> > rotor excitation will indeed be expensive.
> >> > 
> >> > Having a lot of experience in the fields of
> >> > 
> >> > electricity and magnetism, unless this fancy generator
> >> > 
> >> > has a few successful years
> >> > 
> >> > of use in the field, I would stay away from it. You
> >> > 
> >> > will have little or no recourse if it fails since is
> >> > 
> >> > not in a car. Tom
> >> > 
> >> > 
> >> > 
> >> > --- williameverettstone <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >> > 
> >> > 
> >> > 
> >> > > Thanks for the reply.
> >> > 
> >> > > 
> >> > 
> >> > > 50gpm is the minimum flow even in times of drought.
> >> > 
> >> > > 
> >> > 
> >> > > Several formulas on the net showed we could expect
> >> > 
> >> > > to produce about 20
> >> > 
> >> > > watts w/ 50gpm and 4-5' head. This equates to 1.6
> >> > 
> >> > > amps at 12 volts. I
> >> > 
> >> > > figured 1-1.5 just to be realistic.
> >> > 
> >> > > 
> >> > 
> >> > > Thanks for the advice on PM motors, I'll check them
> >> > 
> >> > > out. Since posting
> >> > 
> >> > > I found that Delco has come out with brushless
> >> > 
> >> > > alternators available
> >> > 
> >> > > in 12, 24 and 48 volts. I'm waiting for a quote on
> >> > 
> >> > > one now, rewound to
> >> > 
> >> > > produce at lower RPM. I expect it's going to be too
> >> > 
> >> > > pricey.
> >> > 
> >> > > 
> >> > 
> >> > > Thanks again.
> >> > 
> >> > > 
> >> > 
> >> > > 
> >> > 
> >> > > 
> >> > 
> >> > > --- In [email protected], tom kasmer
> >> > 
> >> > > <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >> > 
> >> > > >
> >> > 
> >> > > > 
> >> > 
> >> > > > my experience witn GM alternators is that the
> >> > 
> >> > > brushes
> >> > 
> >> > > > will last
> >> > 
> >> > > > about 150,000 miles + or -. That is a half year of
> >> > 
> >> > > > steady driving. The alternator is subjected to
> >> > 
> >> > > > underhood temperature extreemes and wild
> >> > 
> >> > > > accelerations. In an outdoor enclosed housing,
> >> > 
> >> > > > running at a fairly constant speed, you might get
> >> > 
> >> > > a
> >> > 
> >> > > > year of 24/7.
> >> > 
> >> > > > Your 1-1.5 amps sounds low. How did you get that
> >> > 
> >> > > > number? As far as PM generators, any PM motor will
> >> > 
> >> > > > work nicely as a generator. 
> >> > 
> >> > > > 4 feet of head is only 2 psi of pressure. How much
> >> > 
> >> > > > total flow 
> >> > 
> >> > > > does the creek have worst case drought time? Is
> >> > 
> >> > > that
> >> > 
> >> > > > the 50 gpm number? If you are limited to this
> >> > 
> >> > > level of
> >> > 
> >> > > > power, that is about
> >> > 
> >> > > > 20 watts best case with an automotive generator.
> >> > 
> >> > > You
> >> > 
> >> > > > might better spend your budget on a photovoltaic
> >> > 
> >> > > array
> >> > 
> >> > > > and settle for
> >> > 
> >> > > > daylight only solar power with less hassle. Im not
> >> > 
> >> > > an
> >> > 
> >> > > > expert in microhydro power so others may do
> >> > 
> >> > > better.
> >> > 
> >> > > > Tom Kasmer
> >> > 
> >> > > > 
> >> > 
> >> > > > --- williameverettstone <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >> > 
> >> > > > 
> >> > 
> >> > > > > Hi All,
> >> > 
> >> > > > > I have a situation with minimum 50gpm flow year
> >> > 
> >> > > > > round (I have been
> >> > 
> >> > > > > measuring for 5 years, through drought and
> >> > 
> >> > > different
> >> > 
> >> > > > > seasons). 
> >> > 
> >> > > > > 
> >> > 
> >> > > > > My wife and I are planning to rebuild the
> >> > 
> >> > > remnants
> >> > 
> >> > > > > of a small dam on
> >> > 
> >> > > > > the creek which would provide about 4' head. We
> >> > 
> >> > > > > estimate we could
> >> > 
> >> > > > > generate 1 to 1.5 amps here.
> >> > 
> >> > > > > 
> >> > 
> >> > > > > We are on a budget, and a prebuilt micro hydro
> >> > 
> >> > > unit
> >> > 
> >> > > > > is out of the
> >> > 
> >> > > > > question, at least the ones I've seen so far
> >> > 
> >> > > ($1,000
> >> > 
> >> > > > > and up).
> >> > 
> >> > > > > 
> >> > 
> >> > > > > If we were to use an off the shelf auto/truck
> >> > 
> >> > > > > alternator w/ brushes,
> >> > 
> >> > > > > how long can we expect the brushes to last
> >> > 
> >> > > running
> >> > 
> >> > > > > 24/7? Are PM
> >> > 
> >> > > > > alternators available, and how pricey are they?
> >> > 
> >> > > > > 
> >> > 
> >> > > > > My second dilemma is predicting the best turbine
> >> > 
> >> > > > > type and size, and
> >> > 
> >> > > > > pulley ratio to obtain the highest RPM at the
> >> > 
> >> > > > > alternator with the
> >> > 
> >> > > > > available water flow. Is there a method to help
> >> > 
> >> > > make
> >> > 
> >> > > > > these decisions?
> >> > 
> >> > > > > If we fabricate some sort of squirrel cage type
> >> > 
> >> > > > > turbine, how do I
> >> > 
> >> > > > > decide the optimum radius of the unit?
> >> > 
> >> > > > > 
> >> > 
> >> > > > > Thanks so much for any help!
> >> > 
> >> > > > > Bill
> >
> >








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