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<DIV><FONT size=2>From the testing and development we've done with turbocharged 
VWs rarely is five minutes required for cool down. The point of idling is to 
reduce EGT's (exhaust gas temps) so oil won't coke in the bearing section. BTW 
we use water cooled bearing sections in all of our kits. Typically you'll see 
600-800 deg.F in 8V and 16V VWs at idle. Cruising on the free way or in regular 
daily driving your EGT's hover around 1100-1200 deg F. 30-40 seconds of idle or 
simply not bringing the car on boost for the last couple minutes of a drive 
will 
drop the EGTs to within 100 deg F of normal idle temps. Turbo timers are a very 
cost effective way to lock the car walk away and have it shut off after a 
predetermined time. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT><FONT color=#000000 size=2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; The only 
reason a turbo car would need to warm up fully before using the happy pedal is 
for oil pressures to drop. 16Vs have tremendous oil pressure on start up ~70psi 
@ idle, well over 100psi with higher RPMs. At 75psi oil will push past the 
seals 
in bearing section and into the turbine and compressor housing. This is easily 
avoided by properly designed oil feed and return lines to limit overall 
pressure 
to the bearing section. Best of luck</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2><BR>Joshua Murray<BR>Matrix 
Engineering<BR>877.290.0661 orders<BR>503.691.1541 tech<BR><A 
href="mailto:[email protected]";>[email protected]</A></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE 
style="BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">
    <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><B>-----Original Message-----</B><BR><B>From: 
    </B>Clayton &lt;<A 
    href="mailto:[email protected]";>[email protected]</A>&gt;<BR><B>To: 
</B><A 
    href="mailto:[email protected]";>[email protected]</A> &lt;<A 
    
href="mailto:[email protected]";>[email protected]</A>&gt;<BR><B>Date: 
    </B>Friday, January 28, 2000 9:15 AM<BR><B>Subject: </B>Re: Turbo vs 
    Supercharger? Not as long<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>I would agree with most of 
    what you said except the heat can be a problem only if you are raving, er 
    racing.&nbsp; The heat problem comes in with normal day to day driving 
where 
    the car, for most people, never has a chance to warm up.&nbsp; You can 
never 
    give your car full foot until a turbo car really warms up, if you want it 
to 
    last 100,000 miles.&nbsp; Also, everytime you stop your car it really is a 
    good idea to idle the thing for five minutes... I had a turbo Rabbit and 
    believe me, that idle thing is a PAIN IN THE ASS!&nbsp; Can you imagine 
    running over to the store and idling for five, then going to the Sushi 
    place, idling for five minutes, then here, another five, then there another 
    five... it really adds up.&nbsp; Now, you don't actually need to be in the 
    car but it's not very practical for a daily driver.&nbsp; New cars are a 
    totally different matter where they have coolant pumps and stuff like that 
    which run even when the car is off but rarely does a retrofit kit have that 
    kind of sophistication.&nbsp; Boy, did it ever feel cool to get all that 
    boost though! <BR>Later, <BR>Clayton <BR><I></I>&nbsp;<I></I> 
    <P><I>Heat can be a problem if you are racing. On the street with the 
    volume</I> <BR><I>of air flowing through the engine compartment you would 
be 
    hard pressed to</I> <BR><I>maintain over 130 degrees (given 80 degree 
    ambient) under hood with a turbo.</I> <BR><I>We've done back to back 
testing 
    before and after turbo installs and rarely</I> <BR><I>have seen more than a 
    10 degree jump. What can be a problem are things</I> <BR><I>directly around 
    the turbine housing (hot housing). Wiring, hose, whatever it</I> <BR><I>is 
    if it's too close it will be cooked. Proper measures need to be taken</I> 
    <BR><I>during the design phase to locate the turbo away from hazards. Also 
    generous</I> <BR><I>amounts of heat shielding will solve just about any 
heat 
    problem.</I> _____________ List Sponsor: http://www.netsville.com To remove 
    yourself from this list, send mail to [email protected] with 
    'unsubscribe a2_16v' in the body of your message See us on the web at 
    http://www.a2-16v.com Visit the 16V Homepage at http://www.gti16v.org 
</P></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
</x-html>From ???@??? Sat Jan 29 11:48:36 2000
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From: "joshua@matrix" <[email protected]>
To: "Clayton" <[email protected]>, <[email protected]>
Subject: Fw: Turbo vs Supercharger? Not as long
Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2000 20:30:35 -0800
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<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2>In case this didn't hit the list, I didn't see 
it anyway.... :-)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><BR>&nbsp;</DIV></FONT>
<DIV><FONT size=2>From the testing and development we've done with turbocharged 
VWs rarely is five minutes required for cool down. The point of idling is to 
reduce EGT's (exhaust gas temps) so oil won't coke in the bearing section. BTW 
we use water cooled bearing sections in all of our kits. Typically you'll see 
600-800 deg.F in 8V and 16V VWs at idle. Cruising on the free way or in regular 
daily driving your EGT's hover around 1100-1200 deg F. 30-40 seconds of idle or 
simply not bringing the car on boost for the last couple minutes of a drive 
will 
drop the EGTs to within 100 deg F of normal idle temps. Turbo timers are a very 
cost effective way to lock the car walk away and have it shut off after a 
predetermined time. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT><FONT color=#000000 size=2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; The only 
reason a turbo car would need to warm up fully before using the happy pedal is 
for oil pressures to drop. 16Vs have tremendous oil pressure on start up ~70psi 
@ idle, well over 100psi with higher RPMs. At 75psi oil will push past the 
seals 
in bearing section and into the turbine and compressor housing. This is easily 
avoided by properly designed oil feed and return lines to limit overall 
pressure 
to the bearing section. Best of luck</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2><BR>Joshua Murray<BR>Matrix 
Engineering<BR>877.290.0661 orders<BR>503.691.1541 tech<BR><A 
href="mailto:[email protected]";>[email protected]</A></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE 
style="BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">
    <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><B>-----Original Message-----</B><BR><B>From: 
    </B>Clayton &lt;<A 
    href="mailto:[email protected]";>[email protected]</A>&gt;<BR><B>To: 
</B><A 
    href="mailto:[email protected]";>[email protected]</A> &lt;<A 
    
href="mailto:[email protected]";>[email protected]</A>&gt;<BR><B>Date: 
    </B>Friday, January 28, 2000 9:15 AM<BR><B>Subject: </B>Re: Turbo vs 
    Supercharger? Not as long<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>I would agree with most of 
    what you said except the heat can be a problem only if you are raving, er 
    racing.&nbsp; The heat problem comes in with normal day to day driving 
where 
    the car, for most people, never has a chance to warm up.&nbsp; You can 
never 
    give your car full foot until a turbo car really warms up, if you want it 
to 
    last 100,000 miles.&nbsp; Also, everytime you stop your car it really is a 
    good idea to idle the thing for five minutes... I had a turbo Rabbit and 
    believe me, that idle thing is a PAIN IN THE ASS!&nbsp; Can you imagine 
    running over to the store and idling for five, then going to the Sushi 
    place, idling for five minutes, then here, another five, then there another 
    five... it really adds up.&nbsp; Now, you don't actually need to be in the 
    car but it's not very practical for a daily driver.&nbsp; New cars are a 
    totally different matter where they have coolant pumps and stuff like that 
    which run even when the car is off but rarely does a retrofit kit have that 
    kind of sophistication.&nbsp; Boy, did it ever feel cool to get all that 
    boost though! <BR>Later, <BR>Clayton <BR><I></I>&nbsp;<I></I> 
    <P><I>Heat can be a problem if you are racing. On the street with the 
    volume</I> <BR><I>of air flowing through the engine compartment you would 
be 
    hard pressed to</I> <BR><I>maintain over 130 degrees (given 80 degree 
    ambient) under hood with a turbo.</I> <BR><I>We've done back to back 
testing 
    before and after turbo installs and rarely</I> <BR><I>have seen more than a 
    10 degree jump. What can be a problem are things</I> <BR><I>directly around 
    the turbine housing (hot housing). Wiring, hose, whatever it</I> <BR><I>is 
    if it's too close it will be cooked. Proper measures need to be taken</I> 
    <BR><I>during the design phase to locate the turbo away from hazards. Also 
    generous</I> <BR><I>amounts of heat shielding will solve just about any 
heat 
    problem.</I> _____________ List Sponsor: http://www.netsville.com To remove 
    yourself from this list, send mail to [email protected] with 
    'unsubscribe a2_16v' in the body of your message See us on the web at 
    http://www.a2-16v.com Visit the 16V Homepage at http://www.gti16v.org 
</P></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
</x-html>From ???@??? Fri Feb 11 16:43:59 2000
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From: "joshua@matrix" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>, <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Dyno/Fuel Pressure/Delivery
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 09:07:44 -0800
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15% is the rule of thumb. Best of luck




Joshua Murray
Matrix Engineering
877.290.0661 orders
503.691.1541 tech
[email protected]






-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] <[email protected]>
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Date: Thursday, February 10, 2000 9:48 PM
Subject: Re: Dyno/Fuel Pressure/Delivery


>In a message dated 2/10/00 9:20:16 PM Pacific Standard Time,
>[email protected] writes:
>
><< Fred, I have everything you have done to your motor except that I have
>stock sized pistons... the balancing is more for smooth
> running up high and the forged pistons don't give hp or torque.  So,
>anyways, I have about 134 or so HP at the wheels according to
> Dynojet.  That translates to 157@15% and 163@18% eff. losses.  When I
called
>the Neuspeed tech department, they told me that a
> typical VW loses around 18% and that is what they use for their wheel to
>crank conversions.
>- That doesn't sound right.  If I remember correctly, the figure is more
like
>21-22% (which would mean you're making more power at the crank).
>
>Alex.
>_____________
>List Sponsor: http://www.netsville.com
>To remove yourself from this list, send mail to [email protected]
with 'unsubscribe a2_16v' in the body of your message
>See us on the web at http://www.a2-16v.com
>Visit the 16V Homepage at http://www.gti16v.org
>

_____________
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