Thanks for the help guys... All the parts are new, so there isn't any play. Unfortunately, I don't have the adjustment screw, so I need to climb under the car. One thing I did notice is the plastic piece on the left side of the shift boot has one of the rivets broken off. What is the best way to take care of that?
-----Original Message----- From: Mark Reda [mailto:[email protected]] Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2003 10:38 AM To: a2list Subject: Re: [a2-16v-list] Aligning Shifter I had a hard time aligning the shifter on my old Jetta GTX because there was play with the ball at the bottom of the shifter. I didn't want to drop the exhaust to fix it. There was a about a1/4" of Up & Down movement and 1/4" or rotational play in the shifter. It took a lot of playing to get just right, If you don't have this problem with your shifter and want to prevent it from happening pull up the shift boot and grease up the ball on the bottom of the shifter. I've used Moly grease, but I'm sure Bearing grease or Silocone grease (not silicone spray) will work. Good Luck, Mark. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jack Simon" <[email protected]> To: <[email protected]> Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2003 8:45 AM Subject: Re: [a2-16v-list] Aligning Shifter > Folks, > > Galen's post is pretty accurate and should get you in the > ball park. However, if you find that you are still misaligned or, > worse, hitting reverse without pushing down on the shifter instead of > first when you shift, then a complete rebuild of the shifter > mechanism is called for. There is a kit that Techtonics sells (P/N > 798-200) for $110 that comes with everything (including their short > shift kit) you will need. The toughest part is replacing the ball at > the bottom of the shifter because you have to separate and drop the > exhaust out of the way so you can access it under the car. The > easiest way I found to do that is to unbolt the cat from the downpipe > and bungy cord it over to the passenger side of the vehicle once you > remove a couple of the rubber hangers. The long shift rod has to be > removed from inside the car so remember to disconnect and remove the > bracket under the car that the rod slips into (has the pinch bolt) > and go from there. A new kit does wonders, makes it feel like a > brand new, fresh out of the showroom car at the end of the > day............Jack > > >Saved this from an old post by Brian: > >"Grab a cassette tape, position the stick shift so that the capstan > >part of the tape (the wider part with the tape visible) sits between > >the rod's white plastic "horn" and the white plastic panel on the > >left of the tunnel opening. Position the stick centered in the fore > >and aft direction. Wedge a bunch of rags on the passenger side of > >the stick, so that the tape cassette is firmly captured against the > >white panel by the "horn". Now, under the car you will see a round > >clamp on the end of the main shift rod, fastened by an 8mm bolt > >(13mm head) and nut. Loosen the clamp fully, go back to the interior > >and jiggle the stick around so that the proper relationship of the > >clamp to rod is attained, and then make sure the stick is back to > >where you positioned it. Go back and retighten clamp. You should be > >able to access each gear properly now. If not, try again, you'll get > >the hang of it." > >HTH, > >GBergthold > _______________________________________________ > a2-16v-list mailing list > [email protected] > http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list > For list archives, see listinfo link above. _______________________________________________ a2-16v-list mailing list [email protected] http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list For list archives, see listinfo link above.
