Yeah, what everyone else said about the heater box <G>. I didn't do that myself because pulling a heater box in a car with a full interior is about as exciting as stabbing myself in the eye with a sharp stick.
Speaking of the dead and dying foam in from the flapper door, do yourself a favor and pull the vents from the dash and remove as much of the foam pieces as possible. I was replacing front speakers today and pulled the vents as a matter of course - I was amazed at the amount of crapola that was in those vent tubes...(ick). A bad injector on a 4-cylinder car is like having a 25% power loss problem so it's very likely that the injector causing some of your problems. CIS-E really requires both a timing light and a multi-meter to properly set baseline specs - do yourself a favor and buy an adjustable advance timing light since they're more versatile than a standard timing light. Since timing and DPR settings are co-dependent, you really must have a timing light in order to set the DPR specs and vice versa. I'd start with the injectors first - I purchased a used, balanced set from Marren Motorsports for the racecar. While you probably don't need that for the street, it might be just as cost effective. Once you know the injectors are working properly, set the specs and go from there, Matthew ----- Original Message ---- From: Steven Arguello <[email protected]> To: Galen Bergthold <[email protected]> Cc: [email protected] Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2007 8:32:32 PM Subject: Re: [a2-16v-list] Mis-fire from idle... This sounds like the perfect thing to leave for some other month, it's too cold in my garage to work for any long time and when it warms up I won't need the heater anyway.... My main problem is the hesitation/misfire. I think I actually have 2 problems. When I blip the throttle from idle, it misses on 1 cylinder and sometimes will just die -not stall- just sputter until I let off the gas, let it idle and then very slowly give it gas till past 2300 rpm. Then it'll pull ok, with that 1 cylinder miss every now and then. Cruising in 5th past 2500 rpm sudden hard acceleration produces that miss. I can deal with the miss but entering fast traffic with the possibility of just sitting there for 5 secs isn't fun. I end up revving past 2500 and popping the clutch (I can't force myself to feather it) then I have to keep the revs above 2500. It's really embarrassing @ my son's bus stop. I messed w/the DPR a lot, back when the cam chain was off 1 tooth, still haven't got it right. I'm almost sure 1 injector is bad. Could this cause that major hesitation? I can't seem to find a timing light for rent or lend anywhere, so the timing is set by ear. If the ignition advance is working properly it still could be limited by the dizzy being set too late -right? I mean the spark has to occur within the arc (say 8 deg) of the rotor right? Since the dizzy, rotor and cap are new,I have to check and fix injectors ignition timing DPR setting spark plugs cables Not sure what order. Sorry for the long post. Still learning CIS-E. Thanks, Steve On Mar 11, 2007, at 2:48 PM, Galen Bergthold wrote: The heater flapper door can be done fairly easily after the heater core assembly is removed. The easiest way I have found to do this is to also remove the heater core itself, then use water and a scrubbing sponge to remove and flush out all remaining foam and any glue residue on the metal air control flaps. I found some 2" wide self adhesive, fairly thin foam at a hardware store. I wanted to be sure it stayed so I also used some 3M spray adhesive on both the flap and the foam to help adhesion. Replace all the foam in there, any other the foam in there isn't usually in very good shape. After reinstalling the box make sure the heat control lever moves the air control flap to the full closed position so no heat is allowed into the cabin on the cool setting. > From: Steven Arguello <[email protected]> > To: Matthew Yip <[email protected]> > CC: [email protected] > Subject: Re: [a2-16v-list] Mis-fire from idle... > Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2007 01:45:11 -0500 > > I have the same problems! 1 mis-fire from idle (hasn't gone away > after 1500 miles) 2 No heat (need some help with that) 3 made it home > on parking lights- missing bolt on alternator support (fixed that) > > How do you fix the flapper door? Bentley doesn't say much. > > Are Digifant injectors the same as CIS-E? I'm pretty sure one's bad. > I'll check the throttle though. > > Steve > > > > > > On Mar 10, 2007, at 10:12 AM, Matthew Yip wrote: > > It just dawned on me that I never posted my final disposition (and > also to try and get this list out of suspended animation). > > After 5 months of "maintenance" and having been parked for 3 1/2 > years, I finally got the '89 16v GTi on the road and legal. I know > I'm slow when working on cars but I had other things going on at the > same time so I really didn't take me 5 months to change a timing > belt, water pump, radiator, injector seals and fluid flushes - honest > <G> Admittedly I hit a few snags like replacing all the hoses only > to find that the radiator was leaking (probably because of the fresh > hoses) or that the axle cup seal that decided to fail because I had > the car on jack stands for too long but it's mostly complete now > which is a huge step forward. > > I took the car out for a few trial runs late at night because the > Safety Inspection was dead. There's nothing like trying out a car > that is questionable on a sub-freezing night at 2300h when you're > alone and you live by yourself in the country - call me stupid, you > won't be the first. The good news was that while the brakes were a > bit touchy, everything held together. The rear calipers appeared to > be good but have proven to be frozen - either that or the > proportioning valve has died - the front brakes don't do much but the > rears work like a champ. It's fun to hurtle to a stoplight, hammer > the brakes and counter-steer as the rear tries to pass the front like > an old pickup truck. The other major issue was NO HEAT - the engine > warmed up but the flapper door in the heater box had lost its foam. > As a result, the interior remained at ambient which had been well > under FREEZING!!! Fortunately a buddy of mine took care of that for > me since that's one thing I didn't want to tac! > kle - pulling the heater box with an intact interior. > > The running problems started to go away as the car got more > exercise. As it had been parked for 3+ years, the gasoline that was > in the tank was more like varnish and it smelled like it too. I > added 5 gallons when the car was "in process" and I added a bottle of > RedLine SI-1. While I didn't notice any change, I also hadn't driven > the car much but I figured that it wouldn't hurt. The more I drove > it, the more I realized that it was gutless for a 16v but that it was > starting to run smoother. Always a fan of "more must be better", I > added another bottle of SI-1 AND a bottle of Techron at the next fill- > up. About 50 miles into that tankful, the car sputtered and suddenly > started sounding like a 16v - I can't explain it but the 16v has a > very unique exhaust note that sounds significantly more aggressive > than 2v/cylinder VW products. Apparently all those cleaners had > finally knocked all the crapola in the injectors free and they were > spraying properly. > > The next issue was the lack of power. As had been suggested, I > checked everything - vacuum lines, intake boots, injector seals - the > whole gamut. I've been around these cars long enough that I thought > I could find the problem. Finally I took it to my buddy who fixed > the heater box after I told him "I checked everything, I'm stumped". > He returned the car after checking specs and telling me that they > were OK but that I should drive it to further exercise the equipment. > > One night, I almost made it home when I realized the dash lights were > awfully dim - hmm, new alternator isn't working, eh? Fortunately I > made it the remaining 3-4 miles on parking lights and a prayer. > While I was underhood, I found the exciter wire had broken - an easy > fix, whew. While I was at it, I decided to check the accelerator > cable even though another buddy had set it for me when he was at the > house - not that it's difficult, just that he'd already done it so I > figured that it was OK. WRONG!!!!! I jammed a piece of wood against > the accelerator pedal and checked underhood. I only had half- > throttle!!! No wonder the car was gutless - duh!! 2 minute later, > the car has almost double the throttle response (go figure)!!! > > Matthew > > > > > > ______________________________________________________________________ > __ > ____________ > Food fight? Enjoy some healthy debate > in the Yahoo! Answers Food & Drink Q&A. > http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396545367 > > _______________________________________________ > a2-16v-list mailing list > [email protected] > http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list > For list archives, see listinfo link above. > > _______________________________________________ > a2-16v-list mailing list > [email protected] > http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list > For list archives, see listinfo link above. _________________________________________________________________ With tax season right around the corner, make sure to follow these few simple tips. http://articles.moneycentral.msn.com/Taxes/ PreparationTips/PreparationTips.aspx?icid=HMFebtagline _______________________________________________ a2-16v-list mailing list [email protected] http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list For list archives, see listinfo link above. ____________________________________________________________________________________ Don't get soaked. 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