Brian, I had read (perhaps it was your earlier email ?) about using wire ties but I didn't want to unsolder the running and anchor light connections and the thoroughly doped VHF antenna connector and extract both sets of wires each through it's own grommeted and already doped right angle exit mast holes. In hindsight, the pvc pipe was probably unnecessary. The pipe insulators alone would have been quite enough - and added their limited buoyancy too.
Larry's idea of using "peanuts" sounds like a good one too - so, when I bend my mast and have to get a new one, that's what I'll probably do. By the way, if anyone is struggling with how to get a limp wire allllllllll the way up the length of the mast AND pull it through a very small hole at the top, try feeding a length of plastic coated wire clothes line down from the exit hole to the base of the mast and securing the wire to it with tightly wrapped packaging tape (it feeds through the small exit hole easier than electrical tape would and requires less thickness but furnishes good holding power). It works best to have someone feed the wire up as a you extract the "clothes line" and work the wire through the hole. I was reluctant to pop the rivets holding the pulley on the mast head but when it is time to configure a new mast, I hope I'll remember to do the wiring before I fasten the crown - and perhaps even bolt the crown rather than rivet it so that future repairs will not be necessary (since easy access will have been provided). Stan. M-15, #177, Carol II _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
