"My boat (was still 'new' when I picked it up) had three grease pencil
markings on the hull--one on either side aft, and one at the bow.  When I
first launched, these marks lined up more or less perfectly with the actual
waterline."

This paragraph begs the question, "How do Jerry and Bob mark the waterline for new 
boats offered with boot
stripes?"  I have been only half paying attention to this exchange because my boat has 
a factory boot stripe
and I figure it's an infallible guide for bottom paint and new boot stripe paint, so 
how do the professionals
do it, especially in a mold?

----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, February 24, 2003 1:35 PM
Subject: Marking The Waterline...More


Group,
I have been following the string regarding marking the waterline, and have a
few things to add.

I use lasers in construction on an almost daily basis, and I believe that the
laser idea is a great one provided that, as Connie says, that the laser and
the entire desired waterline (both sides) of the boat are on the same plane.

I have several lasers: a 'Robolaser', a more sophisticated 'David White'
rotating laser, and a simple torpedo level with integrated laser.  The former
two are self leveling--which is to say that the laser mechanism inside the
case is a pendulum, and will always cast a line/dot that is on a level plane.
 The latter has to be leveled via two vials.

Any of these, when mounted on my height adjustable tripod, is capable of a
moving dot or line (manual in the case of the torpedo laser) that will give
you a virtual slice through a plane.  The trick is to get the boat's desired
waterline on the same plane as the laser.

Might I suggest the following method for waterline marking?

My boat (was still 'new' when I picked it up) had three grease pencil
markings on the hull--one on either side aft, and one at the bow.  When I
first launched, these marks lined up more or less perfectly with the actual
waterline.

I would propose that you load the boat/distribute your anticipated gear,
engine, etc. (perhaps humans too), and then with a grease pencil, mark the
actual waterline with three marks per side from the dock (transom/hull
intersection, amidships below shrouds, and bow).

These marks will provide you the means of confirming that the laser is in
fact on the same plane (fore to aft, and port to starboard).  If the laser is
leveled, but the boat is not, or if the waterline is not too be level on
account of the way the boat sits in the water do to loading, etc., the
adjustment can be made by raising or lowering the tongue, and/or by jacking
one side of the trailer.  You may have to raise or lower the level's
elevation as the adjustments are made, but it would be best to keep it level
in all directions (consistent level plane) and adjust the boat accordingly.

You know that you have it right when the laser dot or line exactly hits all
of the marks on the hull (both sides).  Eventually, you will need to move the
laser to the opposite side of the hull for marking the actual line, but while
confirming/adjusting the boat relative to the laser plane, try setting up the
laser so that the dot/line plane is just below the hull.  You can then use a
tape measure (held plumb from the marks on the hull down to the laser
dot/line) to verify all six marks without having to move the laser and
recalibrate.

When you do move the laser from side to side, make three or more reference
marks on opposing walls (or some stationary object other than the boat) to
use for recalibrating your laser plane.

This may sound complicated, but in fact is very easy (especially with the
Stabila level tripod that allows for vertical changes in the laser plane
without affecting level).  Many of the less expensive lasers out there will fi
t a standard photo tripod.  I know the laser, when set up properly, will work
with rounded objects. We have used one to set up mounts for a huge above
ground water tank.

Good luck!
Scott Grometer, M15 #478 'bebe'




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