Craig,

Ask the manufacturer of Starboard what its SPECIFIC GRAVITY  (SPG) is, and
if it is 1.0, it has neutral bouyancy, and with any value above 1.0, it will
not float. The specific gravity is a number that gives the comparison of the
weight of a solid object compared to the weight of the volume of water that
the solid object displaces. Multiply the SPG by 0.975 for salt water
applications. Hope this helps.

Clarence Andrews
Carpe Ventum  M-17

----- Original Message -----
From: "Honshells" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2004 12:02 PM
Subject: M_Boats: centerboard


>
> Please forgive me for reviving the centerboard discussion . . .
>
> I was interested to learn, when I attended the "Strictly Sail Chicago"
boat show recently, that Bauteck marine
> ( http://www.bauteck.com/ ) uses Starboard for their 8' to 12' daysailors'
centerboards AND kick-up rudders .
> . . I asked Christoph Bauer, designer and builder, if Starboard would be
heavy enough and stiff enough for the
> Montgomery's centerboard . . . He thought is was possible . . .
>
> I would be very interested in pursuing the Starboard option . . . Would
anyone out there have the mathematical
> savvy to plug the M17's centerboard dimensions into a formula calculating
density and buoyancy of the
> particular thickness and size of a chunk of Starboard?  I have a Liberal
Arts degree, and am a math moron . .
> .
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "MC" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Mark Escovedo" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Cc: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2004 2:11 AM
> Subject: How you been?
>
> Hi Mark, yep I'm back in the mainland for a while and busy making saw
dust. (getting the boat ready to sail
> again that is)  Very sad story I have with the stainless centerboard, to
cut the story short, I don't have it
> anymore, its now history. I went back to get a second one cut and this
time got it cut from plate steel and
> them galvanized it, I think its called type 4 carbon steel, very hard
stuff.
>
> I  changed the cockpit drains to drain directly astern through one way
rubber valves, Instead of going into
> the hull and then back out again.  Finished installed permanent night
running and cabin lights,  a solar
> charge panel to charge the two small U-1 batteries. They are reverse diode
split so one can be used for bilge
> pump and one for the radio and lights with out affecting the other.
Installed chart racks above the forward
> berth so everything is in one place. And added book rack on each quarter
for hold in nic-naks and other odds
> and ends. Built in a snap together sailing galley on to the lowest hatch
board so I can get a cup of coffee on
> the sail, it has a built in pot holder so it does not spill except in the
roughest weather.  Bought the spray
> foam to seal between the aft berth and the galley cross section  to
prevent water from moving forward. I'm in
> process of installing a Vee shaped water tank from the potties potter
forward, its a 47 gallon size and will
> be air filled to twenty pounds, calculating at 62.4 lbs of buoyancy per cu
ft and a dead a weight of 1500 lbs.
> I will need to install 24 cu ft of space to stabilize so any emergency can
be confidently dealt with, if no
> assistance is near by.  You know that old saying about its hard to
remember that your are draining the swamp
> when your ass is knee deep in alligators. The time to plan is before any
problem or emergency arises. I now
> have two pumps with back presenter flapper valves to prevent back up thru
a single stern 1-1/2 out let, one
> electric and one hand. I bought a small Guzzle from US Boat but it is too
hard to operate after  ten minutes
> or so, so I'm looking for an "easier on the arm" model. The next projects
include installing a cockpit
> inspection hatch, and two cross section inflatable buoyancy bags either in
the combings or  under the stern
> cockpit flooring. The rigging is one project It does need to be replaced
and I like the idea concept of
> Norseman Swageless because they claim they can be re-used.  The wind vane
is the old standard trim-tab design
> and its still in its infancy. It attaches to the rudder and steers
directly with-in 5 or so degrees. I found
> it much quicker to set and forget or set change sails and reset with just
a one locking pin so much faster
> than the surgical tubing to sail method.
>
> MC
>
>
>
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