Epoxy primer and barrier coat is best for finishing the board.  And
DO grind a good shape in it if you care about performance.  Round off the
leading edge and leave the trailing edge with a flat on it; don't round the
trailing edge.  If you live around here (Sacramento) I'll do it for you.
I'm a world-champion grinder and am easily intertained by flying sparks.

Jerry
jerrymontgomery.org

----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Smith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats"
<[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, November 14, 2005 9:49 AM
Subject: RE: M_Boats: M17 Information



Can't help with the measurements, but keep in mind that if you want to
use a back stay adjuster, you might have to shorten the stay and
lengthen the bridle (Randy Graves knows more details on this).  I had my
cb sand blasted and recoated (some industrial strength stuff called
Amerlock).  Make sure the tang on the cb is in good shape--I had mine
rebuilt by a good welder.  Sand blast and 3 coats was $180.  I didn't
bother fairing the cb.  More hassle than benefit in my mind, and if the
outfit that blasts the board can paint it right away, you won't have to
worry about rust.

I've had an M15 trailer sandblasted and painted, but it's been a while.
As I recall a local place in Sandpoint did the work for 3 or 400 bucks
total.

You might consider closed cell foam for cushions.  It'll be firmer, but
you won't absorb any water in the event you get some on them.  t


 /))  Tom Smith & Jane VanWinkle
M15/345--Chukar
M17/496--Unnamed




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