Larry,

I wasn't thinking about torque from weather helm, but instead a twisting of
the blade due to the force on the blade from the water not being in line
with what structural engineers call the "shear center".  You might not even
particularly feel any weather helm, depending on how well balanced the
rudder blade is.  Sometimes you get funny things like that going on.  For
example, if you have a 10' long piece of angle iron sticking out of a wall,
looking  like an "L" and you put a sandbag on the end of it, it won't just
bend down a bit.  It will also bend to one side.  Similarly, if you have a
10' long piece of channel sticking out of a wall like so: [ and you push
down on it at the centroid of the cross-sectional area, it will not only
bend down a bit but it will also twist.  To get it to bend straight down,
you actually have to put a little bracket on the backside of the [ away from
the horizontal legs (flanges) and push down there (to the left of the
vertical web as I typed it) or else counter twist as you push down.

I was curious so I googled the modulus of elasticity of some plastics like
HDPE and UHMW and Starboard and it looks like they are quite a bit (about 10
times) more bendy than the same section built of mahogany.

http://www.machinist-materials.com/comparison_table_for_plastics.htm

http://www.righteouswoods.net/mahogany_african.html (probably our rudders
are Honduras Mahogany, I'd guess, but this gets us in the ball park)

However, that still doesn't mean that the rudder couldn't give quite
satisfactory performance.  It could be that in both cases the deflections
are not especially significant.  If I were racing, though, I'd choose the
wood any day over an unreinforced plastic, unless the course were through
some skinny water! :o)

I'm still wondering about the location of the shear center of a foil,
though.  Didn't see anything really juicy.  Here is a brief mention of the
subject:

http://www.eng.auburn.edu/~drmac/elasticaxis.html

If you wanna give yourself a headache, look at this one.  Sure gives me one:

http://www.ae.msstate.edu/~masoud/Teaching/exp/A15.7_8_ex1.html

The thing is, your typical foil such as an airplane wing isn't made of a
homogenous (sp?) material the way our rudders are.

Anyway, not knocking them; for some places they make much better sense than
the standard non kick-up rudder.

Tod
M17 #408
BuscaBrisas

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Larry E Yake
Sent: Monday, November 28, 2005 8:19 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: M_Boats: New Kick up rudder


Regarding the Ida Sailor kick-up rudder, I would think you would be
experiencing a huge amount of weatherhelm before you had enough torque to
make the rudder blade twist. The cheek plates are pretty substantial. I
really doubt we're getting any twist or flex. The tiller doesn't have any of
the flex feel that I've noticed on the stock M15 kick up rudder. I've only
been using mine one season so I can't speak to the long term durability
issue other than to say the quality and strength of construction look very
good. The pointing ability doesn't seem to be any different than the stock
rudder, which is a good thing. My stock rudder was one of the earlier,
balanced models and I was reluctant to replace it, but since it couldn't
even be raised vertically in shallow water I needed to do something.  The
foil shape is very good on the stock 17 rudder, so I was pleased that the
kick-up rudder seems equal in performance.  I have no vested interest in Ida
Sailor, and get nothing from them for endorsements. I did get a discount on
my rudder for helping with the design. I just believe it's a good product.
The rudder breaking on the Santana is somewhat worrisome. I have also heard
of a corrosion problem on the aluminum cheekplates on one of the east coast
boats, which was also blamed on substandard material.  There are about a
dozen Ida Sailor M17 rudders out there last I heard. Anyone else having any
problems?  

Larry

On Mon, 28 Nov 2005 19:32:55 -0500 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes:
> While those plastics no doubt offer some advantages, I would suspect
> that
> rigidity of the overall blade would be less than the factory rudder, 
> meaning
> that when viewed from the top the tip of the rudder would want to 
> bow to
> weather with weather helm and might well twist, putting the tip at 
> a
> different angle of attack than the upper part of the blade if the 
> shear
> center of the foil doesn't coincide with the center of lift, which 
> could
> offset some of the gains of the "good" foil shape.  Still, for some 
> people
> it's probably a very good option, certainly better than getting your 
> transom
> bolts popped.
> 
> Tod
> M17 #408
> BuscaBrisas (<= who's transom bolts got stretched significantly
> once)
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]

> On
> Behalf Of Tom Smith
> Sent: Monday, November 28, 2005 12:34 PM
> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats
> Subject: RE: M_Boats: New Kick up rudder
> 
> 
>  
> Larry has an Idasailor rudder, Randy Graves has one, and I have one
> that's
> not yet installed.  I'll let those guys speak regarding durability 
> over time
> and performance, but I'm impressed with the quality of the build.  I 
> wasn't
> aware of a new, lighter version, or if the Montgomery blades can be 
> ordered
> in a different hdpe material than what I got or not.  It sure seems
> industrial strength to me, and in my opinion it's a superior 
> solution to
> grounding than the original slide-up design.
> 
>  t
> 
> 
> 
>  /))  Tom Smith & Jane VanWinkle
> M15/345--Chukar
> M17/496--Unnamed  
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> in/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
> 
> 

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