Since your lead is pellets, why not mix up the resin then add the pellets
like you would microballons or any other additives?  Then you could just
pour the mixture into your cavity without worrying about getting everything
wet out.

Lewis Baumstark
Potter 15, Bristol, TN


----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, February 10, 2006 10:25 AM
Subject: M_Boats: lead installation


> The lead is in 25 lb bags od "shot" just like what you'd fill a shotgun
> cartridge with. 48 of them. Installing it is gonna be fun. When the boat
was built
> it is my understanding that the ballast was installed from the top of the
keel
> cavity and then resin allowed to soak down through it. One thing that I
> noticed when removing the ballast is that there were large areas where the
ballast
> was not resin soaked. I was able to just scoop out the punchings. I'm sure
> that this wasn't really a problem 'cause the  cavity was filled right to
the top
> so there wasn't any issue of the ballast being able to move around. I
suspect
> that when the resin was poured over the ballast it found certain paths to
> travel through it  and dispersed itself out as good as it could, but the
punchings
> were packed pretty solid, so there were areas where the resin didn't go.
Why
> does this mater? Well, I'm not sure if it does BUT....I won't be filling
the
> entire void in the cavity with ballast. The lead is much denser than the
steel
> so I expect some space left at the top of the cavity after its all in.
> Because of that I really want to try to make it as much of a single "mass"
as
> possible. I really don't want to cut throught the floor of the cabin if I
dont have
> to. So here's my plan.
>
> I plan to layer the ballast in in 2-3inch layers at a time and soak them
in
> polyester resin. I usually use West System epoxy for everything. This
> application , however, is just to glue the shot together and is going to
take a fair
> amount of resin. Epxoy runs close to $115/gallon. Polyester is only $23.
> I will build a "dam" along the bottom edge of the holes in the keel that
will
> be above the level that I am going to install the lead. Then I am going to
> lay in a 2-3 inch layer and then resin soak it. I'll let that resin kick
into
> the gel state before I go for the next "dam", layer, and resin soak. I am
hoping
> that that will also allow the resin to dissapate some of the heat it will
be
> generating as it cures. I'm anticipating the difficulty to increase as the
> levels get higher just due to being pinched between the top of the dam and
the
> bottom of the hull for work space. I think I make a long funnel
arrangement to
> pour the shot  and resin in with, but we'll have to see how it works out
as it
> goes along. Certainly there will be some amount of additional space  left
> above the lead ballast. Do I just leave it empty? I don't know. I could
fill it
> with 2 part expanding foam but that stuff is a sponge if water ever gets
in
> there. Anyone got any ideas on that? Right now I'm leaning towards just
leaving
> it empty. I guess that bridge is still a ways down the road.
>
> I've still got some work to do before installing the lead. I'm going to
run a
> test by pouring colored water into the bilge and see if any makes it down
> into the keel from above. Also there's some glasswork I want to do to the
bottom
> of the keel slot. Actually its probably a good thing 'cause all the while
the
> boat and keel will continue to breathe the 10% humidity, Arizona, 80
degree
> air. That can't be a bad thing. I just keep telling myself "take your time
and
> do it right.........................then I say San Juans! San Juans! San
Juans
> are slipping away!!!" hahaha.
>
> I'll post pics on the site as progress is made. Other projects such as the
> swing keel refurb, rudder repair, and bottom job are all continuing to
make
> progress as well.
> _______________________________________________
> http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
>


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