Great tips on the paints Howard. One thing I might add regarding 
locker/interior paint. I have long used regular house paint latex (good quality 
brand of course - semigloss) on my boats in the past with very effective 
results. Long ago I used to go the epoxy route but found that it wasn't 
necessary where the outside elements were not involved.
 
My M15 is my first trailer sailor and all my previous experience was with boats 
I kept in Marina's through the years. Typically it would be a bit more hostile 
of an environment regardless that the lockers are internal and out of the 
weather. More chance for moisture due to condensation, etc.
 
I repainted the lockers out when I bought the 15 and it looks fantastic. I even 
had the store match the color to the original so it's factory fresh and finish. 
As with anything, preparation is key for good adhesion.
 
My two cents.
 
Ashley
M15 # 478
Morgan Hill, Ca
 


----- Original Message ----
From: Howard Audsley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2006 4:55:20 AM
Subject: Re: M_Boats: Restoring an M-17


Maybe a  two part epoxy paint for inside areas and lockers, but not the 
deck or topsides. Epoxy paints chalk in the sun. What you want is a two 
party LPU like Awlgrip or the Interlux version of the same thing.  I 
think Jerry has also suggested using the automotive paints, like Imron, 
over an epoxy primer. These are nasty products to spray however. Takes 
special breathing equipment to avoid serious harm to your pipes. Can be 
rolled and tipped.

Plan B on fiberglass is to use the one part (so called polyurethane) 
like Brightsides (really an oil based paint...says alkyd right on the 
can). Pretty easy to do. I've also heard others swear by simple old 
Rustoleum.

All will probably look good if you prep the surface before you paint. 
All these will show every flaw if you look close. So the quality is up 
to you. Flawless......looks ok from 10 feet.......or won't be noticed 
by a man from 50 feet galloping by on a horse.

It has occurred to me more than once that the MSOG site, if Doug is 
still up for it, would be a good place to host examples and fixes for 
the most common problems on these boats. As they age, the same things 
pop up on most boats. Everything from rudder, CB and keel repairs, 
electrical system upgrades, to windows to gelcoat cracks. He put up a 
copy of a survey  he had for Vixen and as I was reading it, I noticed 
the same problems on my boat.  Same would be true for the 15. No reason 
to fret about it or to re-invent the wheel. It's all be solved before.

Howard


On Oct 15, 2006, at 9:00 PM, Robbin Roddewig wrote:

> I am in the first stage of restoring my "new" '75 M-17, Miss Take as 
> my wife calls her (she's joking... I think).  I cleaned up a lot of 
> grime from the cabin and it looks really good now.  I have been 
> working on the topside with 3M all in one cleaner and wax as well as 
> what little 3M restorer and wax I had on hand.  The topside is rubbing 
> out really well. The hull is more of a problem.  I have been working 
> on it with 3M rubbing compound but it seems like it could use more 
> help.  Does anyone have a good way to go after heavy oxidation that 
> has worked well for them?
> In addition the boat was shrink rapped for a long period and has 
> blistering where the shrink rap apparently held water against the 
> hull.  Two spots about a half foot square or so on each side at the 
> stern.  I have done blister work below the water line and have not had 
> to worry about how it looks as it was eventually covered with barrier 
> coat and bottom paint.  I think I remember Jerry M suggesting that a 
> proper repair would be to use two part epoxy paint as opposed to 
> polyester gel coat for repairs like this.  I have an air gun, 
> compressor etc. that would handle epoxy paint.  Has anyone gone with 
> this approach?  Any hints?
>
> Thanks in advance
> Robbin
>>
>
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> http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
>


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