buy some Petit Skip Sand . . . It's way
easier than sanding.
Thanks -- I'd never heard of this.? Its own specs say it's a good tie-in
between 2-part epoxy barriers (Interprotect) and antifouling.
I'm happy to look at anything that will relieve me from the job of sanding this
hull once again -- and anyway, there's no profit in sanding off even a mil of
barrier coat.? The molded lapstrake design that makes this boat look so
beautiful is a real pain to repeatedly sand and paint.? I'm hoping to get that
last coat of antifouling on before my gumption runs out.
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [email protected]
Sent: Mon, 7 Jul 2008 12:13 pm
Subject: Re: M_Boats: Experience with Interprotect 2000E ??
In a message dated 7/7/2008 10:37:29 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Perhaps some of you have used Interprotect 2000E barrier coat and can answer
a couple of questions.? The literature itself seems self-contradictory, and
also doesn't jibe with what I'm experiencing.
As part of an extensive gelcoat blister repair, I'm using Interprotect 2000E
(over Epiglass), on top of which I'd like to finish up with Fiberglass
Bottomkote ACT antifouling.
A lot is made of overcoating the Interprotect with antifouling when it is
slightly tacky (using the "thumbprint" test), but I'm finding that each coat
is
already touch dry by the end of the roughly 1/2 hour it takes to apply a
coat to my M15.? Curiously, the next coat of Interprotect can go on in 3-5
hours
(depending on ambient temperature), or as much as 2 weeks later, without
sanding.
Interlux's own FAQ list tells of the dire consequences of applying
antifouling paint after the "tacky" stage of the underlying Interprotect
coat.?
(The
consequences are, the antifouling won't stick for long.)? And yet even if I
immediately began applying the antifouling coat after applying the final coat
of Interprotect, it wouldn't be a wet-into-wet (or wet-into-tacky) situation.?
It would be "too late," to use Interlux's words.? The Interprotect simply
dries too quickly.? (I'm working in temperatures ranging from 70 to 90 degrees
-- undeniably, the drying time is greatly shortened as the day heats up.)
Yet Interlux's own charts specify that the minimum overcoating time --
putting Fiberglass Bottomkote ACT over Interprotect -- is 5 hours at 73
degrees
and 3 hours at 95 degrees.??So immediately following up with the first?ACT
coat
would flout these minimums -- and yet?either of these is hours past the
"thumbprint" stage.
Finally, let's assume that it IS "too late" to overcoat wet-into-tacky.? The
only references to "what next?" that I can find are advisories that you have
to remove everything and start over.? Is it not possible to let the
Interprotect cure, then sand it with 80-grit (judiciously -- obviously you
don't want
to thin down the Interprotect barrier coat), and apply an antifouling
bottom?coat?
Any insights or advices would be greatly appreciated.
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You probably have super low humidity and it's causing the interprotect to
cure faster. Anyway, if past the tacky stage it can be sanded lightly. 80
grit
can be used but it's overkill. 100 or 120 is plenty.
If you don't want to sand, buy some Petit Skip Sand. It's a solvent that's
wiped or rolled on and it makes the surface tacky again.. Then you paint over
it. I used it on a 42' sailboat epoxy barrier and it worked fine. I did the
barrier coat on the entire hull from keel to deck. It stayed tacky overnight
here in Florida's 90 F temp and 95% humidity so follow up painting was no
rush. There were no bottom problems 5 yrs later when I sold the boat. It's way
easier than sanding.
Bill P.
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fuel-efficient used cars.
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