when I scrubbed the wood, the softer grain between the
harder lignin got removed leaving a striped and rough texture that I found very
difficult to sand smooth.
Yes, I had more of that the last time I did it (couple of weeks ago) than the
first or second.? The teak had been exposed for a long time (years) to harsh
conditions and was simply in a lot worse shape.? Eventually, nothing will bring
it back.? (I gave up on the teak handrails on top of the cabin and just
replaced them and the base they were mounted on?-- partly for the aesthetics,
but also because they're not merely decorative but highly functional.? Since I
did remove those, I reattached them with through-bolts, rather than the
questionable screws attaching the originals.)
The best I could do on this last pass was to make sure my sandpaper had a
strong flat backing (either the power sander pad, or at least a sheet of
sandpaper folded several times), in an effort to shave off the ridges without
digging into the softer pulp.? The result was quite acceptable, though the
rails won't ever again have that pretty clover honey glow as when new.? But
then, I don't either.? And I pretty well guaranteed that about 15 years ago,
when I inadvertently finished off with tung oil rather than teak oil.? The
former greatly darkens the wood over time.? I toyed with replacing the toe
rails?during the current re-fit, but when I saw how many bolts there were, I
grew faint and had to go lie down and let it pass.
I've always just finished with oil.? Not ambitious enough to start dealing with
varnish.? (As of this summer, I'll hereafter have to deal with bottom paint,
and that'll be enough added maintenance.)
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Delin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Tue, 8 Jul 2008 2:30 pm
Subject: Re: M_Boats: Brightwork Refinishing
Hi Paint4real,
Thanks for your suggestions. I have been unhappy with my previous experience
with using the two-part chemical teak cleaners because of the damage it caused
the last time I used it - when I scrubbed the wood, the softer grain between
the
harder lignin got removed leaving a striped and rough texture that I found very
difficult to sand smooth. Perhaps I was over zealous. So far, I've succeeded
in cleaning the wood substantially using acetone. One person recommended using
household bleach to take the gray off - it seemed to work a little bit. In my
experience it doesn't take a whole lot of sanding to take the old gray look
off.
I'm planning to refinish with Cetol Light, followed by the Marine Gloss - this
produced a pretty decent finish on my old Cape Dory Typhoon I had prior to my
M-15.
When I re-apply the toe rail and other wood - I'm going to first coat the
bolts with the old standard bedding compound Dolphinite - I have found that
this
really helps prevent corrosion, and will hopefully make the rails easier to
remove in the future. It is also useful to use between the wood and fiberglass
- helps join them nicely together and prevents water infiltration into the
screw
holes.
Mark
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