Carlos,
I recently acquired M17 #14 which belonged to my brother. It has the transom
cutout for the outboard and he solved the problem of the outboard prop hitting
the rudder by attaching a triangular block on each side of the rudder to limit
the rudder angle. When the Rudder is at maximum angle, the forward edge of
the block (with a rubber pad on it) touches the transom. It works fine since
at any greater rudder angle, the rudder just acts as a brake anyway.
Griselda is a fixed keel model but the early CB models had a sliding rod
assembly on the rudder pintel and gudgeon that would allow the rudder to be
raised to permit launching and shallow water sailing. If I remember correctly,
there was a rod for the upper and one for the lower gudgeon. Maybe someone
with an early CB model will know.
He also removed the OEM water tank and attached a long hose to the faucet
inlet. The hose leads forward to the area under the forward bunk where there
is a rack that holds two 5 gallon "jerry cans" of water. The extra weight in
the bow does mprove the balance of the boat and allows more storage space under
the galley area. This allows you to carry the jugs ashore to wash and fill
them. I am planning to add another access hatch under the bunk to make it
easier to get to the "jerry cans".
After my brother began to have problems with skin cancers, he stopped all
outdoor activities and parked the boat in his back yard for 15 years. I
finally bout her from him am in the process of cleaning up the boat to go back
in the water and be moored at my private dock behind the house. In years past,
I have spent many pleasant hours aboard Griselda and sailing in company with
her in my Slipper 17. It will be nice to have her back in the water looking
like her former pristine self.
Ron
M17 #14
Griselda
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected]> Date:
> Thu, 17 Jul 2008 14:21:15 -0700> Subject: M_Boats: Gudgeon/Pintle Pins, OEM
> OB Cut Out, OEM water tank> > Hey Guys/Gals--> > Rudder Install:> Fairly new
> '79 M17 owner (couple of months now). Had a question about how rudder is
> attached to pintles/gudgeons. My boat came with 2 long (approx. 20" long)
> stainless rods for use in attaching rudder. Does these attach through top?
> What keeps rod from falling through and lifting out of gudgeons/pintles? The
> rods have no stops on top or bottom. There are two small holes on one end of
> each (cotter pin/ring?). Cotter ring/pin would prevent rod from falling down
> (if installed with holes at top) but what about lifting up? Did I get an
> extra rod or are both rods used (I don't know how that would work!)?> > >
> Outboard Placement:> Previous owner installed an outboard bracket on STBD
> side of transom, claiming rudder hits OB when turning hard to one side when
> OB is used in OEM location. Do your rudders hit on the M17 with OB attached
> on OEM cut out? My OB is a 2008 Nissan 6hp 4 stroke LS. Haven't tried OB yet,
> but would like to try it on OEM cut out rather than on OB bracket. Thoughts?>
> > OEM water tank> Do those of you with older boats have OEM water tanks? If
> so, do you like them, do they serve you well, are they too much extra weight,
> etc..? I am considering taking tank out to reduce weight, but it would make
> sink/faucet useless. Thoughts?> > Having all kinds of fun fixing up this
> great little boat! Current projects include trailer mods (OB bracket for
> travel, mast crutch at bow (for travel), mast crutch/mast raiser at stern
> (extendable mast crutch to assist in raising mast), 8' extendable tongue, tie
> down tabs, and new taillight brackets that are installed higher to raise
> taillights and license plate (hated lic. plate scraping at every steep
> driveway/intersection). Next project is tiller pilot install. This fall I
> would like to remove all deck hardware and reglass all deck hardware holes as
> discussed here on this forum.> > Thanks for the suggestions,> Carlos >
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