> On Jan 21, 3:58 pm, will <ossumguyw...@gmail.com> wrote: > Yep, ... I needed to add what I believe was an extra 100 clock > cycles (12.5us) or else the MPSA92s would stay partially on and > allow just enough voltage to pass to cause an "off" bulb to flicker ... > Now it's 100% contrast, no flickering at all. Very nice looking. >
12.5uS is a tad on the quick side for nixies. You might want to add a little margin and double, if not quadruple it. I've used interdigit blanking intervals in the 50 to 200uS range, on my nixie projects. But then, I could be a bit anal in that respect. I haven't seen your anode drive circuit, but you should have a resistor across from base to emitter on those MPSA92s. They should be in the 10K to 22K range. They bleed off any charge across the base-emitter junction, which looks like an open circuit, when the forward drop, drops below 0.6V, and keeps MPSA92 ON a bit longer. A scope would be a good investment. There's been talk of cheap little digital scopes, lately, but you can get good used analog scopes for not much money. Shipping might be the biggest cost. Another thought is to build your own analog scope with little 2" & 3" CRT tubes that pop up on eBay often. You can use old scope manuals to find the schematics as your guide. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
