A couple of points.

You are going to need more than 0.2-0.3 mA to fully light a nixie
tube. Otherwise, you will see gaps in the numerals.

A camera flash power supply has DREADFUL efficiency, is usually
designed to work from a 1.5V battery, and does so by pulling HUGE
currents - often over 1 amp. Here are the reasons why.

Assume you need a 200V power supply, and at about 6 mA. That's 1.2W
out. The simple circuit found in cameras will be no better than 50%
efficient, so that's at least 2W in. Even with a fully charged
battery, that's 2/1.5 OVER ONE AMP in!! so you've got to build a power
supply capable of delivering over an amp, at one and a half volts,
just to pamper to your camera circuit. Why bother?

John points out several alternatives; I would further add that I have
seen small custom-built power supply modules on eBay that will run
from a much more convenient 12V or thereabouts, and return much better
efficiencies. If you are wary of building your own, then certainly
look at one of these:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NIXIE-TUBE-POWER-SUPPLY-MODULE-CLOCK-2-OUTPUTS-/250871015688?pt=UK_Consumer_VintageAudio_RL&hash=item3a6913e908

ALSO! A camera flash power supply will be designed to charge a much
larger capacitor (for the flash) than these custom supplies like the
ones above, and this is capable of giving you a much bigger BELT when
you put yourself across that open circuit 330V, than a smaller,
current limited 180V supply. And, no matter how careful you are,
sooner or later you will do this! Alas, I know this... :(

Laurence (AKA MrNixie, UK)

On Oct 9, 3:08 am, John Rehwinkel <jreh...@mac.com> wrote:
> > I've just got my IN-14 tubes and started experimenting on my first
> > nixie project - the clock, of course! For now I am using a disposable
> > camera as my power supply. Shorted out with an amp meter, it gives a
> > steady 12.8mA at 330V, which is better than expected.
>
> More accurately, it pushes 12.8mA through a short at zero volts.  I'm guessing
> the 330V is no load.  So in-between, you're getting less than 330 volts at 
> less
> than 12.8mA.
>
> > So my question is; should I continue bothering with this power supply
> > (should it even be used for 6 tubes) and try to fix my schematics, or
> > just make my own power supply which I am not so fond of.
>
> I'm guessing the camera supply just isn't up to the job, sad to say, but 
> likely.
>
> So there are a few ways you could proceed.  If there are more where that
> came from, you could use six camera supplies, one for each tube.  That
> might work, and would be amusing.  Otherwise, you'd have to come up
> with the voltage some other way.  The easiest way is probably to buy a
> ready-made supply like the Tayloredge ones.  They're small, reliable, and
> very cost effective at $13 apiece, and you don't have to make your own.
>
> Alternatively, if you're using an AC supply, you can use a transformer in
> reverse to step-up the voltage, and rectify that.  Three parts (transformer,
> diode, and capacitor) and you're there (you can steal the capacitor and
> probably the diode from the camera supply).
>
> > Can driving nixies at such low voltage and current damage my nixies?
>
> Yes, running them underdriven like that can lead to cathode poisoning.
> It can be reversed, but it's disappointing when it happens.
>
> - John KG4L

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