As a chemist, I would not advocate using HF unless you've got the
appropriate equipment/training..;-) It'll eat your bones...literally. As
for nitric acid, that's not a novice friendly substance either. Pete's
stainless steel case is nice, but if you want a matte look, find a local
metalwork/fabrication shop and ask them if they can do it for you.

(another) Nick


On Mon, Jun 9, 2014 at 8:07 AM, Nick <n...@desmith.net> wrote:

> ...should have added that if you are in a really humid atmosphere, you may
> need to re-passivate the stainless steel with some Nitric Acid - Google for
> the method - basically, SS doesn't corrode largely because it has a layer
> of CrO2 on its surface - when made, the SS is completely de-greased and
> then pickled in Nitric Acid - this removes any free Fe from the surface
> leaving the remaining Cr ions to react with oxygen to produce a layer of
> Chromium Oxide a few molecules thick.
>
> 4Cr + 3O2 → 2Cr2O3
>
>
> In a dry atmosphere, the newly brushed SS will form its own passivation
> layer in time...
>
> You can "matt" the surface with Hydrofluoric Acid (i.e., micro etch it) -
> this works well but not all SS is the same and micro-etching is not
> suitable for high-Sulphur steels (303 grade) and low-Nickel grades (400
> series).
>
> HTH
>
> Nick
>
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