One more thing: can you try completely removing that heatsink, and see if 
it makes any difference? I designed my own nixie clock with a 7805 (also 
3x2 multiplex), and it hardly gets warm at all (you can easily touch it), 
without any heatsink. I'd just like to exclude this heatsink as a cause, 
since it's not in the original design, and i'm wondering if your "paste" is 
electrically conductive at all (remember, the metal tab of the 7805 is 
connected to ground, and the one for the IRF640 is connected to the drain).

On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 7:27:58 PM UTC+1, Niek wrote:
>
> You can of course get a new kit, but it will be much more fun and give you 
> a better sense of accomplishment if you fix this one - and since I don't 
> see anything inherently wrong with the design, you should be able to fix it 
> fairly easily. Try lowering that input voltage to 9V, and could you also 
> post a video of the digits issue, so it's a bit more clear what's going 
> wrong?
>
> Thanks!
>
> On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 7:11:32 PM UTC+1, MichaelB wrote:
>>
>> Very nice kits and Pete is very quick to help
>>
>> On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 10:57:28 AM UTC-7, blkadder wrote:
>>>
>>> I have been using the kits from PV Electronics (www.pvelectronics.co.uk).  
>>> He has kits that will use pretty much every tube manufactured.  He does 
>>> have a few that use the big Nixies like you have.  All the kits I have used 
>>> are his QTC line, and they seem to have all the features that your current 
>>> clock has.  If you see his online chat button active, he actually answers 
>>> things right away.  Hope this helps.
>>>
>>> Ron
>>>
>>> On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 1:51:10 PM UTC-4, Kiran Otter wrote:
>>>>
>>>> By the way, I'm open to recommendations on a different clock kit that 
>>>> will use my IN-18s.  I haven't had much luck finding another make.
>>>>
>>>> Kiran
>>>>
>>>

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