Thanks for your reply! Yeah I mean pin 12 to 25 VDC, mis-type.

So for the first part. I will have 8 tubes. So I put 47 ohm in series with
pin 1 to 5 v and all 8 pin 11s together and through a 20 ohm. Well,
everything gets better when my dmm gets here.
The method of testing you said is great! I will keep it in mind.

On Tue, Jul 21, 2015 at 4:43 AM, petehand <peteh...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Heater voltage, I think you mean. How many are you running? Connect one
> heater pin (1 or 11) of each tube to 5V through a 47 ohm resistor, then the
> other pin of all of them together to ground through one resistor, of 20
> ohms divided by the number of tubes. So for 4 tubes, use a resistor of 20/4
> or 5 ohms - 4.7 ohms is ok. This raises the cathode enough above ground
> that the tubes blank properly, and having them all on the same resistor
> makes them all at the same potential. Check by powering up the heaters in a
> dark room. If you can see the heaters glowing even very dull red in total
> darkness, they're too hot, increase the common resistor until you can't see
> them.
>
> I don't know why you would connect pin 2 to 25V. Maybe you mean pin 12,
> the grid. Connect it to 25V for permanently on, or switch it for
> multiplexing.
>
>
> On Monday, July 20, 2015 at 8:49:56 PM UTC-7, Chaos Hydra wrote:
>>
>> As the topic says, what do you guys do for the 1.5v for the anode
>> voltage. an AA battery? I was thinking to use two bias resistor and get it
>> from my 5VDC logic circuit input. Are there any better options to do this?
>>
>> Also, just double check my Russian, Pin 1 goes to 1.5V and pin 11 goes to
>> ground, right? pin2(for IV-17) goes to 25V and the rest pins are 25V
>> soucing inputs.
>>
>> Thanks in advance!
>>
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