You need more than 160V to be sure the display starts ionising - it may 
sustain at 160V, but you need more volts - note that the segments on these 
displays use very little current and you will need s large (say 470K) 
cathode resistor.

I have several 100 Panaplex displays, including over 100 SP-336s in stock. 
The 336s were bought NOS in original packing from a reputable source (Jan 
W.) some years ago - about 10% were completely dead (Jan dealt with that - 
he's excellent - he also has the original testing machine for ZM-1350s! 
It's a beast - https://www.die-wuestens.de/dindex.htm?/ZM1350.htm  
<https://www.die-wuestens.de/dindex.htm?/ZM1350.htm>

So, it's possible that some have simply died of old age/leakage. But if 
they've been unused/in storage for a long time they can be "sticky" when 
being lit again, so don't give up - if you've got a neon tester or a Tesla 
coil etc. that you can stick them near, they should light up - if they do 
that, they haven't out-gassed, so you have a chance.

Using a high cathode resistor, I'd crank them up past 200V or until they 
light, then drop back to 180V or so and let them settle down again.

Cheers

Nick

On Friday, 20 October 2017 23:21:03 UTC+4, Ookpik wrote:
>
>
> Hi,
>
>  
>
> I’m the fellow who is trying to test the Panaplex displays. I have several 
> SP-336 and SP-337 displays that after testing were found to either not work 
> at all or only partially work.
>
>  
>
> The thread mentioned by Jonathan can be found here:
>
>  
>
>
> http://antiqueradios.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=329168&sid=43ef8db9fe2b71654a90cc5d5745ff2d
>
>  
>
> Unfortunately, I do not have a DC power supply that goes above 160V.
>
>  
> If anyone has any additional suggestions or tips regarding the testing of 
> these display it would be greatly appreciated!
>

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