The exact anode voltage is not critical; it needs to be high enough to 
ensure the tube is reliably ionized over the life of the tube. 200 volts is 
a good value.

What matters the most is the *current*. If the current is too high, the 
tube's life will be reduced. If the current is too low, the brightness 
might be less than desired, and your tube may develop cathode poisoning, 
where portions of some cathodes dont fully illuminate. Generally, cathode 
poisoning is reversible so dont get overly concerned about it at the moment.

The simplest method to limit anode current is to use an anode resistor. You 
can calculate the approximate value of the anode resistor from basic 
circuit theory:

Anode_supply_voltage = (anode_current) * (anode_resistor) - Tube voltage.

If your tube's voltage is 165V, and the anode supply is 200V, and the ideal 
anode current is 2.75mA, you would need about 12.7K for your anode 
resistor. After you setup a tube and your supply, measure the voltage 
across the anode resistor to calculate the current to make sure it's the 
right value.

>From the formula, you will notice that variations the tube's voltage drop 
and the supply-voltage affect the current. But at higher supply voltages, 
the variations in these will have smaller impact on tube-current. My first 
nixie clock has a +340V anode supply, so I just use larger resistors and 
waste a bit more energy.

Personally, I dont like anode resistors because the anode current will vary 
as the tube and power supply age, so I use a simple current limiter. I've 
posted about this a few times in the past so you can do a search for 
details. It's a matter of choice, and there are valid arguments a regulator 
is overkill.

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