Hi
You could.
It only needs to 'persuade' the air to move a bit so can run slowly.
Put a series resistor (you will have to play with the actual value) and I suggest a capacitor, say 470 uF in PARALLEL with the resistor. This would give increased volts to the fan at 'switch on' otherwise there is a risk it may not start up.
Spacing a fan away from a 'grille' or any other parts reduces the noise.
Matt S

Mike Thompson wrote:
Awesome, thanks guys.

Would it be even better to go a step above and install a quiet fan into it? Either way this is going to be racked with at least 1U of space open top and bottom.


--- On *Wed, 5/12/10, Matt Syson /<[email protected]>/* wrote:


    From: Matt Syson <[email protected]>
    Subject: Re: NEOTEK: Rebuilding a power supply; parts question
    To: [email protected]
    Date: Wednesday, May 12, 2010, 4:39 AM

    Hi
    The main killer of power supplies in the long term is HEAT.
    Electronic parts are 'happiest' at around 20 - 25 Centigrade and
    the closer you can keep ALL the parts to this the better. Of
    course to achieve this involves decent airflow and intelligent
    placing of parts so that the ones that can tolerate a little more
    heat are placed in a suitable position.
    Overrating of particularly the 'pass' transistors and the main
    rectifier is 'cheap' insurance. In a 'power one' 13 Amp supply
    module they run 2N3055 transistors at about 2 Amps per device
    which is sensible and I have never seen any failures of these
    devices out of what must be over a thousand units. Rectifiers and
    occasionally transformers are a different issue.
    Remember that heatsink temperature is lower than the temperature
    the transistors (and rectifiers) get to so if the heatsink feels
    too hot to touch (or hold comfortably) then the transistors are
    probably being run a bit hard. Here, having multiple devices helps
    spread the strain as the interface between the transistor and the
    heatsink, using an insulating washer can allow significant
    difference. Make sure you have effective thermal compound in there
    and the screws are tight.
    With shortage of studio space and the fact these supplies are
    silent it is tempting to hide them away somewhere. They MUST have
    good cooling airflow.
    Matt S

    Ike wrote:
    > Hi David
    >       No daggers from this quarter! The only thing I would add
    is that what I have found with over a dozen PS-3's that I've known
    is that the failures are almost entirely due to assembly problems.
    IOW the parts that fail tend to do so because they weren't
    soldered and/or mounted properly at the factory. Once these things
    are corrected they can and do run for years without any trouble.
    > Best
    > Ike Zimbel
    > Zimbel Audio Ltd
    > 416-720-0887
    > www.zimbelaudio.com
    > Sent from my iPhone
    >
    > On 2010-05-11, at 11:29 PM, David Butler <[email protected]
    </mc/[email protected]>> wrote:
    >
    >> As a former power supply engineer I will weigh in here, all the
    while watching my back for daggers!
    >>
    >> :-)
    >>
    >> In general, PSU designers do NOT underrate components enough,
    IMNSHO. This is why so many power supplies dies early, untimely
    deaths. The capacitors in particular, tend to bake. If higher
    temperature caps can be found, so much the better. In general,
    going up a little in voltage rating on caps is OK, SOMETIMES going
    up in value is OK too, depends on the design. The idea all around
    is that heavier is GENERALLY better. You don't want to go
    extremely high on capacitor voltages: they are happiest on a diet
    of 50% or so of their nominal ratings.
    >>
    >> The power transistors can sometimes benefit from having higher
    voltage, power and current ratings, as long as everything else
    (gain especially) is the same. Personally I like rectifiers rated
    at at least double, if not triple, the PEAK voltage in the
    circuit. Again, rating for higher temperature handling rarely hurts.
    >>
    >> If the supply in question lasted a long time with no problems,
    there is no fault  to be placed on using exact replacements
    either. My own take is to be conservative by going for heavier
    parts if the costs are not excessive.
    >>
    >> Just my 50 cents...
    >>
    >> db
    >>
    >> --   David 'db' Butler
    >> AV Wizard, Audio Guru & Team Leader delivering exceptional
    >> on-time & under-budget results with cutting edge technologies.
    >>
    >>
    >> Quoting Mike Thompson <[email protected]
    </mc/[email protected]>>:
    >>
    >>> I have a question regarding parts replacement -
    >>>
    >>> i have a tech who has looked at my Series 1E power supply and
    told  me he could rebuild it with no problem, but I wanted to make
    sure  before I handed it off to him if there were any parts that
    needed to  be specific values (equal to or greater), anything that
    should  specifically be improved upon when rebuilding, how to make
    it  compliant to the standard, or any other tips to make sure I
    get the  most out of it.  I know some of you guys had rebuilt them
    and I  figured this was the best place to ask.  Let me know.
    >>>
    >>
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