It took a few years to get mine fully refurbished. It is well worth the time and money. Go the extra mile and buy the best cable and connectors you can find. You won't regret it. The front end is killer and Mixing out of the box on these consoles is the real deal. Sweet beautiful clean headroom.
On Mar 24, 2011, at 12:39 PM, "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote: This console has been a big project from the beginning...if it didn't sound so good I would have scrapped it long ago. Trust me Ralph would never use consumer grade "anything" I think it gives him a rash. I am going to pass your links on to him to make sure we are all on the same page but thank you for your suggestions, they are always welcome. Jack Jack Dean Stauss No Static Pro Audio, Inc. 3083 N. California St. Burbank Ca. 91504 818-729-8554 818-729-8551 Fax www.nostaticav.com [email protected] Confidentiality Notice: This e-mail message, including any attachments, is for the sole use of the intended recipient(s) and may contain confidential and privileged information. Any unauthorized review, use, disclosure or distribution is prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender by reply e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message <Email Image.jpg> On Mar 24, 2011, at 10:33 AM, Greg Norman wrote: Good idea, big project. I don't know if your solder pads are spaced for normal headers, like the Molex .156" standard in other neoteks. If they are, I would recommend buying right angled gold plated headers similar to this. Then for the female mate (on your ribbon loom), assemble connectors with trifurcated pins soldered, not crimped to your loom. All gold, solid contacts. Make sure whatever buss cable you choose is flexible, and substantial. Conventional ribbon cable, won't do over the long haul. If you go with consumer, computer grade stuff, you'll have a new kind of terror in the studio. I would also recommend making a trap door on the bottom of your console to access/remove the connectors, as opposed to having a ton of cable slack between channels to pull them out. The shorter the better. You don't want to have the busses run any longer than you need to. My two cents. Greg Norman Electrical Audio Recording 773.539.2555 www.electrical.com On Mar 24, 2011, at 11:54 AM, [email protected] wrote: Ok, so my tech (Ralph Skelton) was planning on changing the hardwired channels to ribbons that can unplug when you need to remove a channel (as in re-caping or servicing) along the way. Before I let him do this, which I believe to be an added "Bonus" feature to my Series 1, I wanted to make sure that it was not affecting the sonic quality of my Series 1 as I am in love with the clarity and warmth of this console...second only to a Neve 88r that I have worked on. He is a very knowledgable tech so I am behind the mods he suggested, I just wanted to make sure no one has tried this mod and heard a difference. Thanx Jack Jack Dean Stauss No Static Pro Audio, Inc. 3083 N. California St. Burbank Ca. 91504 818-729-8554 818-729-8551 Fax www.nostaticav.com [email protected] Confidentiality Notice: This e-mail message, including any attachments, is for the sole use of the intended recipient(s) and may contain confidential and privileged information. Any unauthorized review, use, disclosure or distribution is prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender by reply e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message <Email Image.jpg> On Mar 18, 2011, at 8:58 PM, Steve Antoniazzi wrote: Not better or worse sounding just more difficult to work on. Much more difficult. Sent from my iPhone On Mar 18, 2011, at 10:56 PM, Jack Dean Stauss <[email protected]> wrote: While we are on the subject of the hardwired consoles...is the general consensus of the list that they are sonically superior or inferior to the modular? Just wondering what the thought process was when they hardwired the modules and made them so difficult to remove. Sent from my iPhone On Mar 18, 2011, at 8:33 PM, "Ron Runyon" <[email protected]> wrote: I have a IIIc and the Modules are Definitely Hard Wired. All of Them. Ron Runyon From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Matt Walsh Sent: Friday, March 18, 2011 8:07 PM To: [email protected] Cc: [email protected] Subject: Re: NEOTEK: series III teardown/move questions... Clark-- Have you ever sat in front of an actual Neotek in your life? The majority do not have hardwired modules. A friendly reminder from reality, Matt W On Fri, Mar 18, 2011 at 1:16 PM, <[email protected]> wrote: First off, The modules are all hardwired. the cannot comeout with out a lot of work. You really can only sit it up with the meter bridge down, pad up, 2 - 4-wheel dollies, strap her down and go. That is the best way (this is how Neotek save money by not having removeable modules like a neve, the differece between a 30 G console and a 100 G console). Everything will need to be teseted again when set up as since it is hardwired, some solder points become loose. Not a big deal. I have moved a series 3, 3 different times to 3 different states. Good Luck Clark
