On Sat, 28 Dec 2002 16:38:55 -0700 FemmeFatale <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> At 06:06 PM 12/28/2002 -0500, you wrote: > >On Sat, 28 Dec 2002 15:50:00 -0700 > >FemmeFatale <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > > > Subject says it all... any ideas besides reading a label? > > > >Besides the label (watt listing or model )or your comp manual, if it is > >a pre-built system, you could use a voltage meter to check the output. > > > > > > Oh & Is > > > there any diff between AT & ATX P/S's? > > > >The form factor is different. > >They are made to fix different case types, through there are some that > >are supposedly usable in either. > > > > > > Charles > > hm ... volt meter... i think we have one.. and b/f is very good @ > electronics. I asked about the AT/X thing cause this mobo is bizarre. It > accepts both factors. And I have a 250 watt P/S & case available...and if > the original p/s that came with the comp is underpowered I'll just use the > ATX 250 watter. > > ------------- > FemmeFatale Using the ATX power supply may not work for you. Even though the board may accept either one (I've got a board like that), the power switch on the case won't! Most likely, the power switch is a mechanical switch that actually has wires from the power supply going to it. ATX power supplies don't have these power wires, instead the momentary contact switch used as the power switch goes to the system board (that's why many ATX power supplies have a physical on/off switch on the power supply itself). Unfortunately, without the momentary switch, you won't be able to turn the computer on/off. This sounds like an older system. What are you trying to run that you don't thing the 250 watts will be enough? Joeb
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