Nostalgic 'Yugoslavs' Mark Sober Anniversary

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Joost van Egmond 

AOL News 

BELGRADE (May 4) -- The country Josip Broz Tito saved from Nazi occupiers in 
World War II and then reunited under his repressive and fiercely independent 
hand has ceased to be. But Yugoslavia still has its die-hard fans, and they 
were out in force today on the 30th anniversary of Tito's death. 

At first glance, Igor Pacpalj appears a bit out of time at the commemoration. 
The 17-year-old high school student is dressed in a bright blue partisan's cap 
with a red star, the kind worn by the former country's former president, whose 
grave he just visited in its former capital, now the capital of the rump state 
of Serbia. "Life was just better in Tito's days," he says, as if he clearly 
remembered.

 

A supporter of Josip Broz Tito pays tribute to the late leader on the 30th 
anniversary of his death in Belgrade on Tuesday.


It is easy to dismiss the crowd gathered at the Museum of Yugoslav History in 
Belgrade, which comprises Tito's tomb, as hopelessly nostalgic. But in fact 
they have serious issues with the patchwork of seven countries that emerged 
after the bloody breakup of Yugoslavia in the 1990s, and a genuine longing for 
the now-defunct federation. 

Yugoslavia was established after World War I as a kingdom built of remnants of 
the Austro-Hungarian and Ottoman empires. The kingdom collapsed during World 
War II and was remodeled after 1945 by Tito and his partisans as a socialist 
state independent from the Soviet Union. Tito ruled Yugoslavia until his death 
in 1980, at which point it declined into ever more bitter ethno-religious 
conflict among Orthodox Christian Serbs, Muslim Bosnians and Kosovars, and 
Catholic Slovenes and Croats. As socialist Yugoslavia collapsed, waves of 
nationalism washed over the region. In the 1990s the constituent republics 
fought violent proxy wars that left hundreds of thousands dead.

All that makes the old times look rosy to some. "Everybody could go to college 
in the old Yugoslavia," says Pacpalj, acknowledging that his judgment leans 
heavily on his parents' experiences. "We had a future, we were part of a 
respected country and we could travel everywhere. Now we're a small Third World 
country. I don't see a future for me here in the next five or six years."

As the self-styled Yugoslavs assemble at the museum in a Belgrade suburb, a 
middle-aged woman sells Tito memorabilia from the back of her station car, and 
a man in full socialist regalia hands out pictures of Tito posing with the 
likes of Winston Churchill and Gerald Ford. 

Many visitors have tears in their eyes, including Igor Cacija. He is with his 
father, who stands silently, a flag of socialist Yugoslavia wrapped around his 
shoulders. Cacija says his Serbian passport doesn't mean anything to him. "If a 
census is held, I'd much rather register as a Yugoslav," he says.

What does it mean to be a Yugoslav? It's usually a mixture of a belief in the 
socialist system the country had after World War II and the internationalism 
that united the populations of the western Balkans into one federation. All 
this is often personified in Tito, a socialist from Croatia who held Yugoslavia 
together, often brutally, and made its presence felt in the world. 

At the 2002 census in Serbia, some 80.000 people registered as "Yugoslavs," 
making them the fifth largest ethnic group in the country (even though they're 
not an ethnic group at all). The phenomenon is not confined to Serbia. 
Throughout the former Yugoslavia many gather on the day of Tito's death and his 
birthday, coming up on May 25.

Blasko Gabric, a printer from the northern Serbian town of Subotica, simply 
refused to acknowledge the end of Yugoslavia, a term employed until 2003 for 
the now-defunct union of Serbia and Montenegro. Gabric simply re-established 
the state in his backyard. His 9 acres of land was the first mini-Yugoslavia; 
eight others have been established since. 

Gabric says his country has 8,000 honorary citizens and counting. "If we have 
enough citizens, we'll go to the U.N.," he says. "Italy already has the Vatican 
and San Marino, why wouldn't Serbia have a Yugoslavia within its borders?" He 
is at work on a Yugoslavia theme park and plans to lure North American 
pensioners to an affordable retirement community to be built on the premises.

Gabric's being Yugoslav has much to do with the "right to a decent life" that 
he says socialism offered, but also the inadequacy of the national categories 
left over after the breakdown of socialism. "Take my wife and me -- our eight 
grandparents had eight different nationalities," he argues. "What does that 
make us? We're South Slavs," emphasizing the literal meaning of the word 
Yugoslav.

Ratko Pavasovic, 46, concurs. Sitting on the stairs to the museum, he might be 
described as a Serb from Croatia who lives in Austria. But he says he has been 
a Yugoslav for too long to feel comfortable with another nationality. He timed 
his holiday to Serbia to coincide with the Tito anniversary. "Call me a 
Yugonostalgic; call it what you want," he says. "I'm proud to be a Yugo. 
Titoland was good."

Filed under: World <http://www.aolnews.com/category/world> , Politics 
<http://www.aolnews.com/category/politics> 

 

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