Maybe it was a wad of JB Weld. I have used it to reinforce the drain plate studs on old Beetle engines and mixed in a little too much of the hardener so the stuff hardened just as I was trying to make the last turn on the last stud I was repairing, and it bent the stud when I attempted to turn it any more. Since it's a plastic anyway, I would think it would work just as well to repair a broken off tab, especially if you used a wad that engulfed both ends of the break. It hardens in a few minutes, and cures to full hardness overnight. It can be machined just like metal, if you wanted to repair some threaded holes. There are other epoxy resins; take your choice. They are all pretty amazing. Stanley
________________________________ From: Dennis <[email protected]> To: [email protected] Sent: Monday, June 1, 2009 11:27:36 PM Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Repairing a Side panel tab break I saw a mechanic in New Zealand fix one on my other bike and basically he just used a big wad of glue and glued it back into place. The wad was so big that it gave the join a lot of horizontal strength. And there seems to be room for a wad of something there since nothing else impinges on that space around the base of the tab. Now I just need to know, "A wad of what?" Dennis G. - Seattle -----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Dennis Hammerl Sent: 01 June, 2009 21:11 To: [email protected] Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Repairing a Side panel tab break Any chance of drilling and fitting a pin down through it ? Somebody posted (months ago) a link to a service that repairs those side panel pins. The inlay deal sounds a bit intensive. A small amount of silicone sprayed on the grommets helps to keep this from happening in the first place. good luck. --- On Tue, 6/2/09, Montepaulsen <[email protected]> wrote: From: Montepaulsen <[email protected]> Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Repairing a Side panel tab break To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" <[email protected]> Date: Tuesday, June 2, 2009, 12:03 AM I have had a little experience with plastics and glues. From my limited experience, two things may be of interest or may be applicable: 1. Clean the plastic first. Plastic is a petroleum material, and things tend to migrate toward the surface. The whole idea behind Armour-All is that something happens to the surface of plastic over time. It has been explained to me that oils migrate outward, or maybe it is waxes, or I don't know what. But I have had better experience in gluing things to plastic, or in adhering tape or other self-stick things to plastic, by cleaning it first. I use straight rubbing alcohol, and rub it thoroughly over the surface, using a little elbow grease (figuratively). My goal is to soak up any oily substances and get rid of them. 2. Heat. I have a couple of sources on this. One is a company I was buying printed plastic from. When I visited the factory, they showed me the part on their assembly line where they zapped the plastic with electricity. They explained that the electricity and the heat did something to the surface that allowed the ink to adhere, otherwise it just wouldn't stick. The other source was the local Plastic store, which in Northern California is called TAP Plastics. They advise that before gluing something to plastic you should heat the surface with a butane torch until water sprayed onto it beads up, or something like that. Look it up on-line. They have videos and directions. The heating process is supposed to prepare the surface so their plastic cements works best. I'm sure you could order some products from them if you like their instructional videos. 3. Bracing Gluing a tab onto something is a pretty insecure solution. You have a very small cross section with which to count upon, and most likely will be much less strong than the original intact plastic part. I have a tab that I'm working on myself (for my car, actually), and I'm trying to figure out a way to attach a section of a paperclip, which will run the length of the tab, but will also extend far into the main body of the plastic panel on both sides, and thus be a very strong addition that will be much more strong than the original part. I'm thinking I could cut a groove with my Dremel tool to lay the wire into, but it's more intensive than I've had time to deal with. And how do I end up securing the wire to the plastic plate? Perhaps drilling a hole through it and tieing it off somehow. Suggestions accepted at this point. But some sort of brace would be nice. What do people have experience with? Perhaps using a zip-tie as a loop? something that will hold, yet won't break easily. On Jun 1, 8:35 pm, 01-ZR2 <[email protected]> wrote: > Hello Dennis I had the same Problem. I use Permatex Plastic Welder > that I bought at NAPA and have always had very good luck with it. > Steve. (83 CB 550 SC Nighthawk) > On Jun 1, 10:34 pm, "Dennis" <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > I managed to get too physical with my right side panel on my CB700SC this > > afternoon and I broke the rear tab off. I can see it's been glued before. > > I wanted to ask, before I tried to repair it, what folks think is the best > > glue to use for this kind of repair? > > > Dennis Gallagher > > - Seattle > > - CB700SC - '85 & '86- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - --~--~---------~--~----~------------~-------~--~----~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. 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