I need to finish my caliper rebuild and will be removing my front
wheel and hence the axel.  What did you use for grease when you re-
assembled?  I need to get some before final re-assembly and I'm not
sure what to get.  The guy who's helping me says to get a lightweight
grease.  I don't know anything about axel grease so any help would be
appreciated...

On Jul 17, 3:50 pm, surfswab <surfs...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Relative bearing is a nautical term used for rough calculation of your
> position at sea when there are no landmarks to guide you.  0 degrees
> is straight ahead, 90 degrees to your immediate right, 180 directly
> behind, and so on.  Match relative bearings to points of the compass
> and though you may not know exactly where you are, you'll have an idea
> of which way to go to get where you want to be.
>
> Relative bearing grease, however, is a fool's errand, a joke played on
> a dink (Dirty New Kid), boot or newbie.  It doesn't exist obviously,
> except as a entertaining prank played on someone not savvy enuf to
> know better -- "Seaman Apprentice Smith, go below and fetch a bucket
> of relative bearing grease --  Aye, aye, sir !."
>
> I was amusing myself with these thoughts while attempting to thread my
> freshly greased axle thru all of the pieces that fit on it during
> reassembly after intalling new bearings -- a chore I wouldn't wish on
> my worst.enemy, now that I've been there, done that.
>
> If you haven't had the pleasure, here's what it's like:
>
> The cryptic instructions in the manual make it sound straight forward
> -- "Remove this, remove that. Installation is in the reverse order of
> removal."  Sounds easy enough. I can do this...and it was, even though
> some pieces fell off and rolled away when I pulled the axle bolt out.
> But I retrieved those and put them in a can.  Getting the wheel out
> from between the forks and from under the fender was a bit fiddly,
> But I managed that too.
>
> Then began the torture.  I had read up on bearing removal on every
> website I could Google and knew going in that getting the bearings out
> of their little cocoons was going to be problematic.  But I figured to
> beat the odds with this nifty tool from Harbor Freight called the
> Blind Hole Bearing Remover (on sale for 29 bucks -- what a deal if it
> saves some aggravation!).  You insert this tool into the inner race of
> the bearing, then tighten a bolt, which causes some magic fingers on
> the other end to expand and hook the inside of the race.  You then
> attach a slide hammer (kinda like a body shop dent puller) to the bolt
> and whang on it till the bearing comes out.  Simple, no?
>
> Not.
>
> The bolt kept coming out of the race without budging the bearing.  I'm
> thinking I have the wrong size bolt, so I upgrade to the next -- then
> the next  -- (there are 4 sizes in the kit.  The fourth one's too
> big).  Still no joy.  I'm working outside.  It's hot. It's muggy.
> It's getting dark.  And I'm getting frustrated.  So I wrap it up, go
> have a beer and decide to go at it again in daylight.
>
> Next morning I see the cause of the problem.  There's a spacer in
> there, looks like a piece of plumber's pipe about 3 inches long.
> Manual calls it a "distance collar."  I call it some other names.
> It's same diameter as the bearing race, and it's up tight against the
> race, so it's preventing my magic fingers from getting a purchase on
> the bearing.  And due to years of 60 ft/lb of torque, some
> crystallized old grease and a little rust.--  it's in there solid!
>
> I experiment with some homegrown ways of dislodging it and moving it
> to the side.  The method that finally worked was a sharp cold chisel,
> held at an angle and my favorite persuader -- a short-handled 3 lb.
> sledge.  The chisel dug into the soft metal of the spacer and moved it
> aside just a little.  That was enough that two of the four magic
> fingers could grip enough of the bearing and pull it out far enough
> for all 4 fingers to grab it.  Whanged on the slide hammer some more
> and out it came.  Now had access to the other bearing and that one was
> child's play.  Keep in mind that I have been beating on this damn
> thing and cussing it for hours.
>
> Not knowing what to expect once I opened up the assembly, I had bought
> all new OEM parts for the job.  Some I didn't need, but used anyway,
> just so I would have spanky new parts and reassembly would be a
> breeze.  I don't know where I get my optimism.  Must be from my
> mother, who's never picked up a wrench in her life.
>
> There are 7 items that must kept in alignment in order for the axle to
> slide into place.  Two are slippery characters, now that they're
> freshly lubed and know that you have your hands (and feet) occupied,
> trying to balance the wheel and keep the forks from flopping side to
> side.  One's the damnable spacer, the instigator of our previous
> troubles.  It's no longer "welded" in place, but slip-sliding around
> inside the hub.  The other is it's frisky buddy, the "side collar,"
> which is a short spacer that goes on outside the hub between it and
> the right fork.  Get one lined up and the other wants to move out of
> alignment.  Once I got the inside spacer speared and lined up, the
> axle would catch an edge of the outside spacer and knock it on the
> ground.  Whenever that happened (6 times!) it was all-stop, retrieve
> the little bastard, wipe it down, re-grease, and start over.  To say
> this is fiddly would earn you the Understatement of The Year award.
> Finally,solved the problem with another homegrown solution -- I shoved
> the old axle bolt into the fork from the opposite side, corralled the
> troublesome spacer and held it in place while I tapped the new axle
> through.
>
> Finishing up was just like the book says.  Torque this, torque that,
> reattach the caliper and the speedo cable and go for a ride.  And it
> works (!)
>
> If you've read this far, you're probably contemplating doing this job
> yourself.  You have my sympathy.  I'd rather go face the ridicule of
> collecting a bucket of relative bearing grease.
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