The battery was my first thought too. That was the first thing that I had to 
replace after I bought my bike. I went to the Honda dealership and got one that 
I knew would work. Steve: the '83's had a weak electrical system so don't screw 
around with second-rate batteries any more. That's a really nice ride that you 
have there and you got a good deal so any money invested is well spent.




________________________________
From: Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Sun, January 24, 2010 9:04:55 PM
Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] '83 550 SC Electrical Issues


How interesting. You have a problem and have started to look in the wrong place 
first. Your description is very good. Why ? Because it points in a totally 
different direction than you are going in. Let's gather some information first. 
How many miles are on this ? What brand is the battery and if you bought it 
from a source that did the proper pre-delivery service before selling it to 
you. You say it goes flat quite quickly. That is the sign of a poor battery. 
Was it load tested after being charged ? It matters not that it is new, a 
battery must be properly serviced before being put into use. An improperly 
serviced battery will NEVER be at 100% no matter what. A low quality battery 
that is not treated properly before being placed in service will cause starting 
AND charging problems. So much for part one. 
#2 The question about mileage is important because the starter may be going 
bad. You've done a ton of work on this and probably started it quite often 
without riding it enough at any given time to recharge the battery. The starter 
may be drawing a lot more than it should as well. 
SO... Take the battery to a dealer ( I know and I don't want to hear it. DEAL 
WITH IT) have it charged and tested on a load bank. G / NG ? 
        Once you resolve that issue, get the bike started and check the 
alternator output. A battery that has less than 10.5 volts will not have a 
functional charging system. The charging system can be checked only with a good 
battery. All of your resistance checks indicate a good system. A check of the 
charging rate is called for. Do that with an ammeter inline with the battery. 
Use an ammeter with a +- 10A range. Disconnect the ground cable from the 
battery and hook up the ammeter inline with the battery. DO NOT START the bike 
this way. Hold the ground cable terminal against the battery post to start it. 
(trying to start it through the ammeter will cause the ammeter to fail) Once 
running, separate the terminal from the post and read the charge rate. Those 
bikes begin to charge at a point above 2000rpm. The charge rate will be high 
for a time and then fall off as the battery is recharged. If the bike has no / 
low charge rate, there are further checks.
 That's enough for now. 
I'm not there, but I see a brand X battery that's been poorly serviced, abused 
by repeated starts and than ridden a short distance with a non-functional 
charging system.. then failed completely. If I hadn't seen this a thousand 
times already, I wouldn't be quite so sure. I am. 
Get PO'd at me and scream. I'm used to it. 




________________________________
From: bull city <[email protected]>
To: Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers! <[email protected]>
Sent: Sun, January 24, 2010 4:26:58 PM
Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] '83 550 SC Electrical Issues

I had my $600 garage find running with a new battery and rebuilding
the clutch and front brake.  After a couple of weekends of working on
it, and only taking ti out for about a 5 minutes ride the bike went
dead as I pulled into my driveway.  I tried to restart but the battery
just didn’t have any power.

I let it sit for about two months as Christmas passed. I’m figuring
the problem is somewhere in the rectifier/ alternator. I went and got
the battery recharged at autozone, tried to restart the bike but the
battery just didn’t have the juice and went dead within 5 minutes (if
that) of trying to start it.

So I have not been able to do any running tests on the bike. But here
is what I have done:

Checked the rectifier using a multimeter to check resistance between
each of the 3 yellow leads to the green ground. It registered zero
ohms on each with one polarity, when the polarity was reversed there
was no current on any. So I am assuming that means it good. I found
this method on-line at http://www.dansmc.com/electricaltesting.htm . I
have the manual but have no idea what the tests are that the manual
calls for (Sanwa SP-10D, etc...)

Checked the alternator by seeing if there is connectivity on the
winding. All yellow leads coming from the alternator show
connectivity. The manual says to check this on the “alternator side”of
the connector. I am assuming this means the winding is good.

The next step in the manual says to check resistance levels on the
“harness” side, which I am assuming is the leads to the rectifier?  I
am NOT getting connectivity between the yellow leads going into the
rectifier. Is this what I am supposed to be doing?

Next is says to check between each yellow lead and the green ground,
which I have and it shows no connectivity, which it supposedly should
not.

I don’t have a running bike at this point to I cant check any running
tests.

So, what should I check at this point?

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