Tangentially related via nitric acid: it's bad news if you're homebrewing
biodiesel using acid esterification techniques. Glycerine + Nitric Acid +
churning = crude nitroglycerin...

Thank goodness I only know this secondhand!
Kurt
On Feb 21, 2012 8:17 AM, "Stephen Brown" <[email protected]> wrote:

> I made the same mistake - dont do it lol ... no concrete cleaner :)
>
> On 21 February 2012 13:14, Graham Rogers <[email protected]>wrote:
>
>> I thought muriatic acid was the ingredient in concrete etch.
>>
>> On Feb 21, 2012, at 4:08 AM, surfswab wrote:
>>
>> > I tend to wary of anything labeled "acid."  Although phosphoric acid,
>> > which is found in pool cleaner, would seem much less toxic than
>> > anything that would "etch" (eat) concrete.
>> >
>> > But that's just me.  :)
>> >
>> >
>> > On Feb 20, 2:31 pm, Kevin Green <[email protected]>
>> > wrote:
>> >> Hi Everybody,
>> >>
>> >> I Thought I would share a hard lesson I just learned.  I had great
>> success
>> >> with Phosphoric Acid, sold at Advance Auto Parts for about $7/quart as
>> >> Purple Power De-Ruster.  I found out that concrete etch, sold for about
>> >> $12/gallon is (usually) also Phosphoric Acid.  It seems that the
>> phosphoric
>> >> acid does a great job of actually converting the rust (iron oxide)
>> back to
>> >> iron and actually reversing the rust.  Unfortunately I bought a
>> concrete
>> >> etch that also had Nitric Acid (in addition to Phosphoric), which is
>> not
>> >> selective the same way, and while it converted the the rust on my
>> header
>> >> pipe back to iron, it also ate the iron, so I have a totally destroyed
>> >> header pipe to replace.  If anybody is interested I can share photos
>> >> comparing how nice a job the phosphoric did when a part was left to
>> soak
>> >> overnight, and how brutally the part was destroyed when left in Nitric
>> for
>> >> about 9 hours.
>> >>
>> >> TL;DR; Phosphoric Acid Good, Nitric Acid Bad
>> >>
>> >> Kevin
>> >
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