What colors are the wires that go to the horn? Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message----- From: Pat Patterson <p...@hot4x4.ca> Sender: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2012 22:12:24 To: <nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com> Reply-To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Horn trouble I can't find my digital wiring diagram and the scan I have on a manual is all but useless for trying to read wire colors and follow wires. Something is odd, and I'm having a hell of a time wrapping my head around your description. I didn't get to my bike today as planned. Tomorrow... that should clear a few things up. If anyone has a good scan of a 450 wiring diagram they could send me that would also help. Or point me at a link. At 12:43 PM 3/11/2012, you wrote: >Yeah, looking at the wires to the horn and not the button. > >The order you have for the circuit would make sense to me, with >perhaps the addition of having the 12v in being relayed so it's only >hot when the bike is on, but it doesn't match what I'm seeing from >the wiring diagram or the readings I'm getting on the bike. I'm >measuring voltage between each wire and the frame and I get 12 volts >steady from one when the bike is on (0v when off) which would match >your theory, but the other wire should measure 0 volts when the >button is pressed if it just runs to ground. Instead I get +12v on >that wire when the button is pressed. > >My measurements seem to match what the wiring diagram in the manual >illustrates, although it doesn't illustrate the horn getting to >ground directly to the frame. If the horn just used those two wires >as the circuit and didn't ground directly then you would be looking >at an incomplete circuit, until you pressed the button and then you >would have a +12v on both wires, which doesn't give you any >electrical difference to power the horn > >This dead horn is actually already not the original horn that was on >the bike (also dead, not too surprising for 30 years old) and the >horn I replaced the original with only had one connector, not two >like the original did, and it definitely grounded through the >frame. If I hooked up the constant 12v line it would honk >continuously anytime the bike was on, and if I hooked up the 12v >when the button was pressed the horn honked. I'm starting the think >maybe the original horn had a relay built in, so that the horn would >ignore the trickling voltage until it hit 12v-ish and then it would >use the power from the 12v steady line to actually power the >horn. That's pretty speculative though. > >On Mar 11, 2012 8:01 AM, "Pat Patterson" ><<mailto:p...@hot4x4.ca>p...@hot4x4.ca> wrote: >It's 4:40 am here... when I get up (lets not call it morning lol) I >have some things to do to my bike anyway so I'll grab my multi meter >and have a look. >I suspect that it's normal tho. > >Actually the more I read and wake up my fuzzy brain something isn't right. > >Your testing the 2 wires that go to the horn itself not the wires >to/from the button correct? > >My understanding of the horn circuit is as follows. > >Batt 12vdc+ -------- 12v+ fuse12v+ ------- 12v+ horn12v+ >---------12v+ button(Normally open) 0v ------- 0v ground 0v ----- 0v >neg side of batt. (from ground to batt it's actually frame not wires) >I hope that makes seance to you. If it does and you're getting .2 >anywhere I have 0v you're ok. That can be anything from meter >accuracy, to static charge to feedback on the ground side with a bad >ground somewhere (could be on any circuit) If you're getting .2 >where I have 12v (and I have the circuit right) then you have a >problem. What I can't say exactly without knowing where in my line >drawing, and maybe not without actually seeing the bike. But I'll be >able to make a good guess just knowing exactly where in the circuit the .2 is. > >for reference a car would be; >batt12v+ --------12v+ fuse 12v+ --------- 12v+ Relay 0v ===---coil >side-- 0v horn button 0v----0v ground. Relay 0v ===------ switched >side--- 0v horn - ground. Auto horns ground internally, bike horns >run a second wire back to the switch for ground. > >At 02:58 PM 3/10/2012, you wrote: > >So I'm up on the road and I realize my horn is dead. I found some >brake fluid dripped onto it and I figure that could have done it in. >I also used my multimeter and found that one of the wires to the >horn has 12 volts anytime the bike is on, and the other has 12 volts >when the button is pressed. What worries me is that the button wire >has .2 volts when the button isn't pressed. That doesn't seem like >the kind of voltage leak that might kill a horn, but I don't see why >it's not 0 when the button isn't pressed and I hate to put another >horn on just to die in another hour of riding because of a voltage >leak (brake fluid leaks are bad enough). Can anybody else with a 450 >check the voltage on those wires and let me know if my voltage is typical? > > >Pat Patterson >Abbotsford, BC, Canada >VA7PDP Pat Patterson Abbotsford, BC, Canada VA7PDP 2001 PT Cruiser 83 450 Honda Nighthawk 78 F350 460/C6 on propane 71 Bronco 302/C4/D20 D44/9" {o===o} "Just add Lightness-" Colin Chapman. 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