Look
below the surface is what the fashion industry seems to be saying these
days. A strange philosophy for an industry infamous for its love for
the superficial and its vanity, one might say. But that be assured
hasn't changed. It's the approach to the garment we are discussing
here. The insides of a garment these days is what most designers are
paying extra heed to. It's the lining that makes a simple outfit a
lavish one. Here is some gyaan on quilting…
Reversible clothes
"The
benefit of having reversible clothes is primarily its versatility,"
says fashion designer Deepika Gehani. "You can dress up in two
different attires instead of one. Not only are they are completely
reversible, such outfits often give a glimpse of the inner fabric which
is extremely stylish," says Gehani. Wrap around dresses or skirts look
great when made in this fashion. The idea of having two dresses at the
price of one may entice college-goers but "rather than being easy on
the pocket, stitching clothes that can be worn reversibly reflects the
designing sensibility of the clothes; it's not an economic decision;
it's a creative call," she says. It's not just clothes - lifestyle and
interior products such as crafting bags, pouches, cushion covers can be
used inside outside.
(Above left) Turquoise and brown knit-lining on the collar & (Top)
Intricate jacket-lining by Manish Malhotra
Sneak Peek
Another technique picked up
by many designers is using a different fabric or print in some section
of a garment, so that only a glimpse of it can be seen. "It is a very
cool trend these days- to creatively do up a section in the inside of
a garment," says Kolkatta-based fashion designer Abhishek Dutta. There
is a lot of scope for trying out wacky things here that can look
disastrous on the garment otherwise. Like "Foil print, rubber print,
block print and even digital printing can be done on the fold of the
cuffs, collars and the inside of a jacket for men and women" he says.
Apart from merely printing it, some designers have gone as far as
trying out an altogether different texture. "Knit has a beautiful feel
to it, some clothes can have a knit lining in the facing area, just for
the touch factor," Dutta adds.
A Different Lining
Often
clothes with interesting lining are mistaken to be reversible. “They
follow a different concept all together. Lining has more to do with
aesthetic appeal than anything else,” says fashion designer Arjun
Khanna who is known to do lining in rather inventive ways. "Rather than
simply picking up interesting fabrics; a lot of flat embroidery,
finishing and fine detailing can be done on the inside fabric," Khanna
adds. Luxurious clothing usually requires the designer to work on the
inside of the garment as much as on the exterior. "For men, it's the
jackets, shirt collars and bandh-galla where inventive lining makes
sense, but for women most clothes can be stylishly lined," he informs.
Tone it up or down
“Lining
is the secret of the garment which only the wearer knows; it’s
equivalent to sexy lingerie,” says fashion designer Anupama Dayal. The
colour trend drastically differs from one designer to another. While
some stick to contrasting colours, others prefer to have a different
shade. "What's contemporary is a solid tone exterior with shocking
colour inside, like say a black jacket with shocking pink lining,"
Dayal says. Another approach could be contrasting prints. "A floral
printed salwar kameez with chunky polka dots within looks extremely
(Above) Red peek-a-boo lining on dress by Nachiket Barve. (R)
Contrast lining on skirt by Agni Mitra Paul
gorgeous," she states. A plain looking garment can sheath a war of
prints beneath it. "A humble looking white dress can have shiny brocade
or a series of cartoon characters printed within." she adds.
Going overboard
“Quilting
is the most important part of a garment, but sometimes it can go
horribly wrong," warns fashion designer Maheka Mirpuri. Two powerful
colours never work with each other.. Like a bright orange and electric
red are a complete faux pas. Similarly blue and vibrant pink can look
ludicrously loud. "The tones and prints however contrasting should
always complement each other. A brown and beige mix can work wonders,"
she says. Similarly when the lining goes overboard the garment is not
advisable as formal wear. "Checks and stripes give out a formal feel,
lining formal shirts with exuberant colours or print can make them
non-wearable in a formal set-up," she adds. "A strict no-no is
embroidery. Detailing the stitches is fine enough. The lining should
always be subdued rather than hyped," Mirpuri concludes.
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