Not to prolong the agony, I tried the example on OSX for man tbl:

              .TS
              tab(@);
              ccc.
              This@is@centered
              Well,@this@also
              .TE

It didn't work with the nroff -man they supply. It did work with mandoc

So my summary of understanding so far:

FreeBSD: does not honour .fc no longer has functional tbl or nroff in base,
does have mandoc which honours .TS/.TE
OSX: does not honour .fc, no longer has functional tbl, nroff is braindead,
does have mandoc which honours .TS/TE
debian: has nroff and tbl.  nroff appears to be groff. honours .fc. The
minimal install does not have mandoc. apt install mandoc and it works.

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