The answer from a SE question has provided a little light:

http://tex.stackexchange.com/q/274582/2148

Directories listed in OSFONTDIR are not recursively scanned for font
files. That's a bit inconvenient. I borrowed from the answer in that
question to do the following:

rm -rf $HOME/.fonts
mkdir $HOME/.fonts
cd $HOME/.fonts
for i in $(echo $OSFONTDIR | sed -e 's/:/ /g') ; do for j in $(find $i
-type f); do ln -s $j .; done; done

The last line creates a symbolic link to every font file specified by
OSFONTDIR. This is means that adding new fonts requires re-linking
them to $HOME/.fonts.

After that, I set OSFONTDIR as follows in $HOME/.bashrc:

OSFONTDIR=$HOME/.fonts

Then:

mtxrun --script fonts --reload

After that, ConTeXT produced the PDF for the MWE at the start of this thread.

How can OSFONTDIR be recursed again?

FWIW, I tried:

OSFONTDIR=/usr/share/fonts//:/usr/local/share/fonts//:/usr/share/texmf/fonts/opentype//:/usr/share/fonts/type1/gsfonts//

That didn't work, either.
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