Recent experience on the Pertronix. They have apparently improved the design 
in that no resistance check was asked for. I am using a stock coil no 
problem. Mine is a 6V system and the engine is a 216. It does all that Nate 
says it does. However, I ran into a problem that had me scratching my head 
for a while. Lowes happens to be about 4 miles from my place and this 
happened several times. Truck started up beautifully, ran beautifully down 
to Lowes. Did my shopping and came out. Truck started hard and ran like 
S*#t. Hobbled home with it missing and barely running. Checked everything 
and all seemed fine but still barely ran. Gave up on it for a while. Started 
it the next morning..same thing. About the fourth time, I couldn't get out 
of Lowes lot. Smoked a couple cigs after checking carb, trying to move the 
dizzy this way and that to no avail. Then it hit me. I checked the vertical 
alignment on the hoobie (the part that fits on the rotor shaft). Raised it 
about a 1/16th to an 1/8th of an inch. Truck has run flawlessly ever since.

Roy
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "vwnate1" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 25, 2004 6:26 PM
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: distributors


>
>
>
>
> James ;
>
> Before you do anything else , look carefully at the plug gaps , they
> should be .035" to ensure good burn @ idle . if the center electrode
> isn;t perfectly square , the plugs are junk and will cause missing ,
> replace them .
>
> Also , remember to adjust the valves if you havn't done so in a year
> regardles of milage .
>
> 6 or 12 volts . the best bang for your buck is to install a
> Pertronix " Ignitor " points replacement unit , it fits into the
> stock distributor with _NO_ modifications whatsoever , you'll need
> to write Pertronix with the Delco part number off your distributor
> and tell them if it's 6 or 12 volts and negative or posative ground ,
> when you receive the unit , the instructions will give you a
> resistance value for the primary circut of the ignition coil ~ this
> is critical and you may need to buy a new coil .
>
> This set up will not make the truck any faster nor more powerfull ,
> what it _will_ do it this : ensure instant starting cold or hot ,
> EVERY time plus better fuel milage and silky smooth idle all the
> time , you'll be able to run .040" gaps on the plugs ensuring
> perfect idle and no missing ever , even if the engine is worn out
> and burns a goodly amount of oil ~ all this for $95.00 (list price)
> plus shipping , you can shop around and get them cheaper from
> various vendors .
>
> Best of all there's NO damn ugly assed box to clutter up the engine
> compartment nor burn out , if it ever poops out , you'll have the
> original points & condenser in a baggie in the glovebox , 10 minutes
> and you'll be driving again .
>
> It also won't chew up rotors , caps and plug wires like all the
> super duper electronic ignitions will .
>
> Merry Christmas ! .
>
> -Nate
>      James  wrote:
>> I have noticed a miss while cold at idle on my 235.  I have seen
> mallory and electronic distributors around.  Given I have to change
> the plugs and probably the carb to avoid future gas fouling, but I'd
> like to get a hotter spark.  What is a good option for electronic
> conversion?
>>
>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!
>
> To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), 
> to:  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 




Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!

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