There is alot of pride and satisfaction in doing a great job yourself, but I am
sure glad I spent $20 or it would have never gotten done.
"JONES, ALLEN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
First, remove any high spots in the imperfections or pits; this will
make things easier down the road. I never use sandpaper, mostly a new
razor blade to nick the tops off. Then, use a catalyzed single stage to
apply 3 coats of color to the button. I used the stock color in Sikkens
(custom mixed, same color as the column, the mixing formula is floating
around in the archives). Then after the paint has catalyzed about 6 to
12 hours (adjust time as necessary as various flavor products will
likely behave differently), use a DULL razor blade to carefully lift off
the paint where you don't want it (the lines and letters). The object
is NOT to remove all of the paint from these areas. If you're lifting
any metal, adjust your technique, obviously. Next, use a wooden Qtip
(the kind doctor's use that are real small) soaked in a strong thinner
(not that cheap stuff that costs $7), flick out the excess and finish
carefully removing the remaining paint. The Qtip needs to be wet enough
to dissolve the soft paint, but dry enough so the paint soaks into the
Qtip. This step is tedious and necessary to remove the paint from the
imperfections (pits), and of course uses a lot of Qtips. It also has
the effect of softening the razor cut edges of the paint along side the
valleys of the button and makes for a nice transition under the clear
coat. Meaning soft, catalyzed, but not hardened, paint is much easier
to work with. Also, it doesn't need to be perfect. The clear will
distract the eye from any imperfect paint that's left behind. Then
apply the clear coat and you have a nice button. I think I used two
coats of clear. Now, it certainly doesn't look like newly plated
chrome, BUT it does look "antique-ish" for some reason, and blends in
well with the overall look of a restored (or unrestored for that matter)
truck. And you keep your GM button that look s a lot better than the
repops, even if loaded with pits.
I tired a 3M product that you paint on, then apply your color, and then
it's supposed to peel off (removes the paint where you don't want it),
but the imperfections/pits grabbed the stuff and it ripped and it was a
general pain to remove (more so than a razor blade). I also was not
satisfied at the edges where I ended up having to razor blade it anyway.
It's important to use catalyzed products, as learning from experience,
it will wear off pretty quick if you don't. My button still looks new
after several years of honking (heh). I also tired a base coat but the
color looked goofy over the metal for some reason, could have been my
fault with mixing, but anyway I switched to single stage.
Sorry if this was too long to explain.
Good luck.
Allen
'50 3100
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!
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