Hey Warren
This is a post I submitted a couple of years ago when I replaced the rear
main seal in my 235. Pretty tough job but doable.
Let me give you my take on this from someone who's been through it. Go get
the tool kit called a Sneaky Pete from your LAPS-this tool(s) is invaluable for
removing and replaing the top part of the seal around the crankshaft. When I
first got my '50 3100 that has a 235 engine, I had a pretty severe rear main
oil leak. Had to do something about it but didn't want to pull the engine.
Dropped the oil pan to get to the bearings. Took the rear cap off which has
the bottom side of the seal. Loosened all the bearing caps slightly to drop
the crankshaft a small amount. By the way, I used the rope type seal from
O'Reillys for replacement. One tool in the sneaky pete package is a tool that
looks like a small cork screw - it's used to remove the old seal. That was the
toughest part of the job for me is getting the old one out and cleaning the
cavity. Another trick I used to clean the remnants of the old one out was to
take a welding rod that has some flex to it, put some
tape around the end to keep from scratching the cavity and lightly tap with a
hammer until it pushes the old seal out. Once the old one was out, I took some
vasoline and lightly lubricated the new seal, attached one end to the sneaky
pete wire harness and pulled the new seal through. Another trick is to pull in
one steady motion - don't try to jerk it through. Torque all the bolts back
and replace the oil pan gasket. Don't need to pull the oil pump. It wasn't an
easy job but it's doable.
Hope this helps
Ken
Warren Humble <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Hello all,
Looking for a little direction on replacing the rear seal in my 216. From what
I have read, it can be done by loosening the crank, replace the seal etc. If I
do this, need I worry about torquing the bolts, and if so at what ft/lb.. Any
help would be appreciated...
Warren
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!
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