Hi Larry ;
I finally got a moment to read your latest log , I'm concerned
about your ignition timing ,you need to se the _total_ advance , not
just where it seems to run well ~ this is simple if you have a
dynamic timing light with advance dial on the back , I'm still using
my 30 year old SEARS Craftsman one , most of my buddies have now
purchased one either new or used for about $25.00 off E-Pay .
Use the _triangle_ or _chevron_ that's faintly stamped into your
flywheel as that's the TDC mark (you can wire brush it clean and
drift some white paint into it for easy visability now the scatter
pan is off) , warm up the engine and connect the timing light , I
use rubber bands to hold the trigger on all the time and set the
light where it'll illuminate the timing window , rev. the engine to
about 2,500 ~ 3,000 RPMs and then set the dial to 35° , loosen the
dizzy's pinch clamp and gently rotate it untill the triangle or
chevron is aligned with the pointer and _stays_ when you release the
dizzy , then snug up the pinch clamp . remember , the advance
mechanism usually give you some slack so take your time to ensure
the timing doesn't drift when you remove your hand .
Too much ignition advance is very rough on the starter's Bendix and
the ring gear too ~ it also beats up on the rod bearings.....
If the starter begins to spin before the Bendix is fully engauged ,
loosen the two screws holding the starter switch to the starter and
adjust it so the lever has to move a bit further before it makes
contact and operates the motor .
I'd remove the switch and _polish_ the contacts too ~ _NEVER_ sand
nor scrape them ! .
_YOU_ can prolly rebuild the starter better than any shop will , all
it should need is : new brushes and bushings , cleaning and re-
lubing . plus you won't chisel off and loose the original DELCO ID
tag I see it still has .
You mentioned a clunk when you release the starter , is the little
retrun spring still on the pedal linkage ? it breaks often and is
important to withdraw the Bendix rather than having the engine kick
it out of engaugement .
Before you pay over $25.00 for a good used flywheel , think about
having the ring gear replaced on yours ~ there's two different ones
with different tooth counts depending on 6 or 12 volt , if the
machine shop cannot find a new one (doubtful) have them press it off
and re-install it 1/4 turn in the direction the engine rotates ,
this will solve your engaugement troubles forever , an old dealer
trick I still use .
Billy Bob is looking good ! nice wax job .
-Nate
Larry wrote:
>
> For those of you who follow the BillyBob log entries, a new Work-
in-Progress
> log entry "Cab Capers and the D-train" has been posted. It
includes about
> half of the cab phase of the detailing cycle, a distributor and
starter
> replacement and the beginnings of my creep towards a clutch
replacement.
>
> http://www.laroke.com/larryk4674/2007/wip54.htm
>
> Larry Kephart
> 1955 1st 3100 Chevy (BillyBob)
> 1991 Jeep Wrangler (Renegade)
> 1993 Chrysler Concorde (BettyLou)
> Boca Raton, Florida
>
Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!
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