Hi larry ;
it's been a rough time for many people , I'm glad you're taking good
care of your liver....
I usually replace the main bearing shells when I do rear main seal
jobs as they can be worn * just enough * to allow the crankshaft to
sit a tiny bit low.......
Good call on the magnetic drain plug , don't be askeert when some
crud attaches to it , that's normal .
The road draft tube is _very_ important ! if you remove it , oil
will burp out the open hole .
They do get all sludged up and the best & easiest way to clean 'em
out is on the barbie ~ find an old Webber and get it nice and hot m
throw on the Road Draft Tube and wait ~ once it gets really hot all
the sludge inside it will begine to burn and it'll smoke like
crazy , let it go until the smoking stops , be aware the smoke is
terribly stinky , this is a weekend when no boss or SWMBO is around
typ of job .
DO NOT try to bead blast it ! you _CANNOT_ get all the beads and
sludge back out of it and the beads will return to the crankcase and
trn the oil into fine grinding paste that'll wipe out the bearings
and journals... no foolin' .
Once it's all burned out , flush it clean , wire brush until shimy
then re-paint with gloss black paint like it was when new , NOT
matte finish like some think .
New correct ' Stove Bolt ' screws for attaching the oil pan are
indeed available and best of all , they're Amnerican made ! .
-Nate
Larry wrote:
>
> It's been awhile but a new Work-in-Progress log entry "Summer of My
> Discontent" has been posted. I've been lazy and hazy since the
last BillyBob
> log entry and I haven't gotten much done. This episode deals
mostly with
> replacing a rear main seal for the first time. Yeah, I'm gonna
hafta do it
> again!
>
> http://www.laroke.com/larryk4674/2008/wip58.htm
>
> Larry Kephart
> 1937 Chevy Utility Express (Deerslayer)
> 1955 1st 3100 Chevy (BillyBob)
> 1991 Jeep Wrangler (Renegade)
> 1993 Chrysler Concorde (BettyLou)
> Boca Raton, Florida
>
------------------------------------
Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!
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