A couple of comments on the process of saving dying orchids. Sphag and bag is a very similar process to the terrarium use described below in Susan's article. I have used sphag and bag perhaps a 100 times or more.
1. Only monopodials tend to root first. Sympodials tend to put out a new growth and finally put out roots on that. Don't use rooting hormone on sympodials with no roots. On sympodials, application of the hormone seems to only stimulate new growths and depresses root growth from that new growth. With repeated application of a liquid rooting hormone, I have seen a plant produce a new growth, then the new growth, only an inch or two long, start another new growth, and none of these producing roots. If a rooting hormone is used on sympodails at the base of the plant, it should be washed off thoroughly after the new growth starts. 2. With sphag and bag, the bag is sealed completely, and the humidity source is mostly wrung out sphag. Potting the plant is unnecessary, and the plant can be in contact with the sphag or not, it doesn't matter. With the plant loose in the bag, it is easy to see new root growth when it comes. Some have reported a fluffy fungus growing on the plant, and I believe this is caused by old fertilizer on the plant. Just wash it off and return the plant to the bag. My own wide spread wilting problem was from what I believe to be a Fusarium infection, probably made readily available as spores in the Canadian peat I use in my mix. This particular Fusarium does not produce the red lining under the surface of the rhizome. There are a number of species of Fusarium that affect orchids. I have been using Banrot (Thiophanate methyl and Truban) in my mix recently, and have, since last spring, used Thiophanate methyl (Cleary's 3336, OHP6672, Bonomyl, Fertilome Halt, ...) very aggressively on the infected plants, and moderately on everything else. I have seen a tremendous turnaround in most of my plants. Vandas have been hard to get a cure on, and my pleurothalids have been mostly wiped out, but everything else is starting to put out clean unwilted growths. As a good leaf is produced, I remove all the clearly infected leaves. If someone has better advice on how to use the various systemics fungicides on Fusarium, or the nature of Fusarium and/or the contagion of the treated plants, I would like to hear it. I took as my model for treatment with the Thiophanate, the recommendation from the Phyton website of spraying Phyton every 3 days while the disease pressure was present, or something like that. What I don't need is someone telling me to throw out a couple of hundred orchids, many very hard to find. What I am doing is working, and the education alone is worth the effort. Cynthia, Prescott, AZ Message: 1 Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2007 09:20:03 EST From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [OGD] Orchids Digest, Vol 9, Issue 355 To: orchids@orchidguide.com Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" In a message dated 11/20/2007 6:02:05 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: "a last ditch effort to save a favorite orchid... Replant in a small pot with sphagnum moss... Sphagnum has natural antifungal properties" see Susan Taylor's interesting article : http://www.bellaonline.com/articles/art54066.asp Thank you for this link VB. It's often a site like this that provides just the tip one needs at a time needed! Rico Valkaria, Fl _______________________________________________ the OrchidGuide Digest (OGD) orchids@orchidguide.com http://orchidguide.com/mailman/listinfo/orchids_orchidguide.com
