DER SPIEGEL 22/2005 - May 28, 2005
URL: http://www.spiegel.de/international/spiegel/0,1518,358223,00.html

Praying to Allah in Mexico

Islam Is Gaining a Foothold in Chiapas

By Jens Glüsing

Long a bastion of Catholicism, southern Mexico is quickly turning into a
battleground for soul-savers. Islam, too, is gaining a foothold and the
indigenous Mayans are converting by the hundreds. The Mexican government is
worried about a culture clash in their own backyard.

Subcomandante Marcos of Chiapas entered into an alliance with a Muslim
movement in the mid-1990s.
AFP
Subcomandante Marcos of Chiapas entered into an alliance with a Muslim
movement in the mid-1990s.
Anastasio Gomez, a Tzotzil Mayan from Mexico, fondly remembers his
pilgrimage to Mecca. He circled around the Kaaba, the highest sanctuary of
Muslims, seven times. At Mount Arafat he prayed to Allah and then he,
together with 15 other Indians, sacrificed a sheep before boarding the
flight back to their Mexican home.

"In Islam, race plays no role," the young man says joyously. His enthusiasm
is understandable. After all, in his home state of Chiapas, Mexico's
poorest, the indigenous people are viewed as second class humans, and whites
and Mestizos treat the Indian majority as if they weren't there. In the
southern Mexican provincial metropolis San Cristóbal de las Casas, the
descendants of the Maya even have to move onto the street if a white person
approaches them on the sidewalk.

Gomez, 23, converted to Islam eight years ago; ever since then, he has
called himself Ibrahim. On his first pilgrimage seven years ago, the Indian
was still something of an anomaly. Today, however, Muslim women in
headscarves have become a common sight on the streets of San Cristobal.

Conquerors from Spain

About 300 Tzozil-Indians have converted to Islam in recent years and it's a
development that is beginning to worry the Mexican government. Indeed, the
government even suspects the new converts of subversive activity and has
already set the secret service onto the track of the Mayan Muslims. Mexican
President Vincente Fox has even gone so far as to say he fears the influence
of the radical fundamentalists of al-Qaida.

But the Indians have no interest in political extremism. Rather, they belong
to the Sunni, Murabitun sect that was founded by the Scotsman Ian Dallas and
is seen as an offshoot of a Moroccan religious order. The Murabitun
followers represent a sort of primal Islam: Earning interest profits through
money lending is a no-no and they preach a literal interpretation of the
Koran.

"The see themselves as restorers of Islam," says the anthropologist Gaspar
Morquecho, author of a study of the Muslims of Chiapas. "Their defiance of
capitalism is similar in many respects to the critique of globalization
espoused by many left-wingers."

More and more Mayans are finding their way to Mecca.
DPA
More and more Mayans are finding their way to Mecca.
While the Mayan Muslims in Chiapas have been receiving extra attention of
late, the Tzotzil conversion has been underway for some time. In the mid
1990s, a group of Spanish Muslims embarked to Latin America to spread the
word; their leader was Aureliano Perez, who is now worshipped by the
Maya-Muslims as Emir Nafia. He offered the Zapatista rebels fighting under
Subcomandante Marcos, whom Perez supported, an ideological-religious
alliance. Marcos was hesitant to enter the odd pact, but the Muslim
missionaries were unperturbed: They discovered that the Tzotzil Indians made
up the majority of the Zapatista rebels and were quite open to the teachings
of the prophet Mohammed.

The battle for the souls of Chiapas is nothing new. In the 16th century, the
Spanish conquistadors used brute force to convert the Indians to
Catholicism. Half a millennium later, evangelical preachers from the US have
turned Latin America into a religious battleground in their efforts to lure
Catholics away from the Church. In the town of San Juan Chamula alone --
whose church is seen as something of a spiritual center by the Tzotzil
Indians and attracts thousands of tourists a year -- there are 11 different
congregations seeking to save the souls of the Indians.

The loss of cultural roots

The Catholics, however, are still, for the most part, in control. They
belong to the mafia-esque former state party PRI run the town hall and the
lucrative weekly market. In face of the advance of the evangelists, however,
they fear that their influence may be waning and they have chased out more
than 30,000 protestant Indians out of San Juan Chamula in the last three
decades and hundreds have been killed or assaulted. Most of the refugees
settled down in the slums on the outskirts of San Cristobal. Cut off from
their cultural and religious roots, the Indians are easy prey for all manner
of soul-savers.

"In Islam, the Indians rediscover their original values," claims Esteban
Lopez, the Spanish secretary general of the Muslim community. "The
Christians destroyed their culture." He presents the use and abuse of
alcohol as proof. Alcoholism is wide-spread under Tzotzil Indians and the
strict ban on spirits in Islam helps many to break the vicious circle of
addiction and poverty.

In San Cristobal, the Mayan Muslims run a pizza shop and a carpenter
workshop and they are seen by the whites as hard-working and diligent. In a
Koran school, children learn Arabic and five times a day they pray in the
backroom of a residential building. Empty congregation halls are not a
problem for the new Muslims: Converted Muslims vow to witness the teachings
of Mohammed among their families.

Anastasio Gomez -- aka Ibrahim -- for example, has managed to convert his
entire family. He is especially proud of the conversion of his 100-year-old
grandfather who was member of a Christian sect. "He was wandering from
religion to religion all his live. Now he has found his peace of mind with
Allah," says Ibrahim.

© DER SPIEGEL 22/2005
All Rights Reserved
Reproduction only allowed with the permission of SPIEGELnet GmbH




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