http://news.independent.co.uk/world/middle_east/article304029.ece
8 August 2005 09:58

The destruction of Mecca: Saudi hardliners are wiping out their own 
heritage 

By Daniel Howden 
Published: 06 August 2005 

Historic Mecca, the cradle of Islam, is being buried in an 
unprecedented onslaught by religious zealots. 
Almost all of the rich and multi-layered history of the holy city is 
gone. The Washington-based Gulf Institute estimates that 95 per cent 
of millennium-old buildings have been demolished in the past two 
decades. 

Now the actual birthplace of the Prophet Mohamed is facing the 
bulldozers, with the connivance of Saudi religious authorities whose 
hardline interpretation of Islam is compelling them to wipe out 
their own heritage. 
It is the same oil-rich orthodoxy that pumped money into the Taliban 
as they prepared to detonate the Bamiyan buddhas in 2000. And the 
same doctrine - violently opposed to all forms of idolatry - that 
this week decreed that the Saudis' own king be buried in an unmarked 
desert grave. 

A Saudi architect, Sami Angawi, who is an acknowledged specialist on 
the region's Islamic architecture, told The Independent that the 
final farewell to Mecca is imminent: "What we are witnessing are the 
last days of Mecca and Medina." 
According to Dr Angawi - who has dedicated his life to preserving 
Islam's two holiest cities - as few as 20 structures are left that 
date back to the lifetime of the Prophet 1,400 years ago and those 
that remain could be bulldozed at any time. "This is the end of 
history in Mecca and Medina and the end of their future," said Dr 
Angawi. 

Mecca is the most visited pilgrimage site in the world. It is home 
to the Grand Mosque and, along with the nearby city of Medina which 
houses the Prophet's tomb, receives four million people annually as 
they undertake the Islamic duty of the Haj and Umra pilgrimages. 
The driving force behind the demolition campaign that has 
transformed these cities is Wahhabism. This, the austere state faith 
of Saudi Arabia, was imported by the al-Saud tribal chieftains when 
they conquered the region in the 1920s. 

The motive behind the destruction is the Wahhabists' fanatical fear 
that places of historical and religious interest could give rise to 
idolatry or polytheism, the worship of multiple and potentially 
equal gods. 

As John R. Bradley notes in his new book Saudi Arabia Exposed, the 
practice of idolatry in the kingdom remains, in principle at least, 
punishable by beheading. And Bradley also points out this same 
literalism mandates that advertising posters can and need to be 
altered. The walls of Jeddah are adorned with ads featuring people 
missing an eye or with a foot painted over. These "deliberate 
imperfections" are the most glaring sign of an orthodoxy that 
tolerates nothing which fosters adulation of the graven image. 
Nothing can, or can be seen to, interfere with a person's devotion 
to Allah. 
"At the root of the problem is Wahhabism," says Dr Angawi. " They 
have a big complex about idolatry and anything that relates to the 
Prophet." 

The Wahhabists now have the birthplace of the Prophet in their 
sights. The site survived redevelopment early in the reign of King 
Abdul al-Aziz ibn Saud 50 years ago when the architect for a library 
there persuaded the absolute ruler to allow him to keep the remains 
under the new structure. That concession is under threat after Saudi 
authorities approved plans to " update" the library with a new 
structure that would concrete over the existing foundations and 
their priceless remains. 

Dr Angawi is the descendant of a respected merchant family in Jeddah 
and a leading figure in the Hijaz - a swath of the kingdom that 
includes the holy cities and runs from the mountains bordering Yemen 
in the south to the northern shores of the Red Sea and the frontier 
with Jordan. He established the Haj Research Centre two decades ago 
to preserve the rich history of Mecca and Medina. Yet it has largely 
been a doomed effort. He says that the bulldozers could come "at any 
time" and the Prophet's birthplace would be gone in a single night. 
He is not alone in his concerns. The Gulf Institute, an independent 
news-gathering group, has publicised what it says is a fatwa, issued 
by the senior Saudi council of religious scholars in 1994, stating 
that preserving historical sites "could lead to polytheism and 
idolatry". 
Ali al-Ahmed, the head of the organisation, formerly known as the 
Saudi Institute, said: "The destruction of Islamic landmarks in 
Hijaz is the largest in history, and worse than the desecration of 
the Koran." 

Most of the buildings have suffered the same fate as the house of 
Ali-Oraid, the grandson of the Prophet, which was identified and 
excavated by Dr Angawi. After its discovery, King Fahd ordered that 
it be bulldozed before it could become a pilgrimage site. 
"The bulldozer is there and they take only two hours to destroy 
everything. It has no sensitivity to history. It digs down to the 
bedrock and then the concrete is poured in," he said. 
Similarly, finds by a Lebanese professor, Kamal Salibi, which 
indicated that once-Jewish villages in what is now Saudi Arabia 
might have been the location of scenes from the Bible, prompted the 
bulldozers to be sent in. All traces were destroyed. 

This depressing pattern of excavation and demolition has led Dr 
Angawi and his colleagues to keep secret a number of locations in 
the holy cities that could date back as far as the time of Abraham. 
The ruling House of Saud has been bound to Wahhabism since the 
religious reformer Mohamed Ibn abdul-Wahab signed a pact with 
Mohammed bin Saud in 1744. The combination of the al-Saud clan and 
Wahhab's warrior zealots became the foundation of the modern state. 
The House of Saud received its wealth and power and the hardline 
clerics got the state backing that would enable them in the decades 
to come to promote their Wahhabist ideology across the globe. 
On the tailcoats of the religious zealots have come commercial 
developers keen to fill the historic void left by demolitions with 
lucrative high-rises. 

"The man-made history of Mecca has gone and now the Mecca that God 
made is going as well." Says Dr Angawi. "The projects that are 
coming up are going to finish them historically, architecturally and 
environmentally," he said. 
With the annual pilgrimage expected to increase five-fold to 20 
million in the coming years as Saudi authorities relax entry 
controls, estate agencies are seeing a chance to cash in on huge 
demand for accommodation. 

"The infrastructure at the moment cannot cope. New hotels, 
apartments and services are badly needed," the director of a leading 
Saudi estate agency told Reuters. 
Despite an estimated $13bn in development cash currently washing 
around Mecca, Saudi sceptics dismiss the developers' argument. "The 
service of pilgrims is not the goal really," says Mr Ahmed. "If they 
were concerned for the pilgrims, they would have built a railroad 
between Mecca and Jeddah, and Mecca and Medina. They are removing 
any historical landmark that is not Saudi-Wahhabi, and using the 
prime location to make money," he says. 

Dominating these new developments is the Jabal Omar scheme which 
will feature two 50-storey hotel towers and seven 35-storey 
apartment blocks - all within a stone's throw of the Grand Mosque. 
Dr Angawi said: "Mecca should be the reflection of the multicultural 
Muslim world, not a concrete parking lot." 

Whereas proposals for high-rise developments in Jerusalem have 
prompted a worldwide outcry and the Taliban's demolition of the 
Bamiyan buddhas was condemned by Unicef, Mecca's busy bulldozers 
have barely raised a whisper of protest. 
"The house where the Prophet received the word of God is gone and 
nobody cares," says Dr Angawi. "I don't want trouble. I just want 
this to stop." 






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