"The body of an old man who jumped from a bridge lies on the sidewalk.
A grandmother died in her wheelchair during the exodus. Volunteers
threw a blanket over the corpse and left it on the side of the road.
Another woman sits despondently in a highway median next to the body
of her dead husband. The police, almost as clueless as everyone else,
simply pushed the corpse out of the way, where it now lies in the
shade behind a low wall. Then, says the wife, the police simply moved
on. "These are scenes from a Third World country," complains Kiersta
Kurtz-Burke of Charity Hospital in New Orleans."

"Mayor Ray Nagin, fearing death tolls in the hundreds and possibly
thousands, issued a "desperate SOS call" to federal authorities in
Washington. By Friday Nagin, frustrated with the sluggish pace of the
relief effort, said in a radio interview: "I'm disgusted -- I need
more troops and more help. They just send me a couple of goddamned
buses, and they don't even know what's happening here. I'm pissed off."
"The catastrophe in New Orleans, made all the worse by incompetent
rescue efforts, shines a glaring spotlight on the chasm between rich
and poor in the southern United States. In New Orleans, those who
couldn't afford to get out ended up struggling for their lives."

DER SPIEGEL 36/2005 - September 5, 2005
URL: http://www.spiegel.de/international/spiegel/0,1518,373047,00.html

SPIEGEL Cover Story
 
The Downfall of New Orleans

Last week America's Gulf coast sank into the flood waters produced by
Hurricane Katrina. The catastrophe in New Orleans, made all the worse
by incompetent rescue efforts, shines a glaring spotlight on the chasm
between rich and poor in the southern United States. In New Orleans,
those who couldn't afford to get out ended up struggling for their lives.

The catastrophe zone in New Orleans: "A City Descends into Madness"
REUTERS
http://www.spiegel.de/img/0,1020,512486,00.jpg

It seems like the kind of nightmarish scene one would see in African
cities consumed by civil war, in places like Liberia or Congo: burning
houses, flooded streets, corpses floating by. As military helicopters
clatter overhead, heavily armed National Guard units in armored
vehicles patrol the city's abandoned business districts where
windowless skyscrapers jut into the sky like dark ruins. Meanwhile,
long columns of refugees walk the elevated highways above the flooded
wasteland -- Monrovia on the Mississippi.

A CNN reporter stunned her viewers by saying: "We have to warn you:
These are not the kinds of images of a major American city that we're
accustomed to seeing." And the images are indeed shocking. Babies and
the elderly are dying in front of our eyes -- on the street and while
cameras roll -- under the blazing sun that began heating up the
devastated coastal region in the US' deep south by the second day
after the hurricane.

The body of an old man who jumped from a bridge lies on the sidewalk.
A grandmother died in her wheelchair during the exodus. Volunteers
threw a blanket over the corpse and left it on the side of the road.
Another woman sits despondently in a highway median next to the body
of her dead husband. The police, almost as clueless as everyone else,
simply pushed the corpse out of the way, where it now lies in the
shade behind a low wall. Then, says the wife, the police simply moved
on. "These are scenes from a Third World country," complains Kiersta
Kurtz-Burke of Charity Hospital in New Orleans.

"Waterworld"

Katrina was a monster storm whose gigantic, rotating circle of clouds
covered almost the entire Gulf of Mexico. It's been a week since the
hurricane swept across the coast of Louisiana and Mississippi, and
this port city still lies paralyzed, drowning in a stinking cesspool
of chemicals, excrement and swollen corpses. The police, unable to
recover all the dead right away, are attaching tracking devices to
some of the corpses so that they can be pulled from the floodwaters
later on. Cynical survivors call it "Waterworld," this landscape of
upended containers, wrecked cars, shattered shop windows and stripped
apartment buildings -- and it could easily double for a scene in a
big-budget Hollywood disaster film. The homeless, the distraught
survivors wander the streets, scavenging for food and medicine. "Help
us, help us," they yell, whenever a helicopter flies by. Some even
write calls for help onto the roofs of their houses.

Law and order have vanished in this city, just as entire neighborhoods
in the unfortunate position of being below sea level have virtually
disappeared. "A City Descends into Madness," writes the local
newspaper, The Times-Picayune. Anger, sadness and frustration over
help that seems to have been delayed indefinitely has turned into fury
and senseless aggression. In the city's historic French Quarter, where
the storm pushed in the metal shutters on shops, survivors search for
water and food. In other neighborhoods, left-behind residents walk the
streets pushing shopping carts overflowing with looted flat-screen
TVs, watches, jeans and sneakers. The Oakwood Shopping Center went up
in flames after looters started a fire there.

Young Katrina victims: "Help us, help us!"
AP
http://www.spiegel.de/img/0,1020,513525,00.jpg

Street gangs, which had already controlled entire city blocks before
the catastrophe, cleared out gun stores and were carjacking fellow New
Orleansers at gunpoint. In many cases, the already overburdened local
police could do nothing but watch as store owners resorted to
vigilante justice. A sign in front of one store warns: "You steal -- I
shoot." Louisiana Governor Kathleen Blanco has even embraced this
phrase as a motto for her own officials, threatening thieves with a
shoot-on-sight policy after last week's rampage through the city's
unguarded businesses.

But then even the rescuers came under fire. A police truck carrying
food supplies was attacked and hijacked. At hospitals, where medical
personnel have been struggling to care for patients under what they
have called Third World conditions, backup generators have been
disappearing. In downtown New Orleans, a rescue helicopter was forced
to turn around when it came under fire during an attempt to evacuate
the injured from a hospital. "We are trying to survive," says police
chief Michael Pfeiffer. It's been a week since the catastrophe began,
and yet Pfeiffer, whose agency's communications system collapsed
during the hurricane, still has no clear idea of the scope of
devastation in his city.

Since then, hundreds of police officers have left their posts and,
like 80 percent of the city's 500,000 residents before, fled the city.
Others, unnerved by the chaos and anarchy, have simply quit their
jobs. Mayor Ray Nagin, fearing death tolls in the hundreds and
possibly thousands, issued a "desperate SOS call" to federal
authorities in Washington. By Friday Nagin, frustrated with the
sluggish pace of the relief effort, said in a radio interview: "I'm
disgusted -- I need more troops and more help. They just send me a
couple of goddamned buses, and they don't even know what's happening
here. I'm pissed off."

An American crown jewel

This isn't just any old city sinking into the water like some
reincarnated Atlantis before the eyes of a horrified and still
seemingly paralyzed America. It's one of America's legendary cities.
It's New Orleans, "The Big Easy," the place Americans have always
flocked to whenever they wanted to get a dose of sinful pleasure in
the Deep South, a place whose seemingly well-functioning
multiculturalism, whose largely harmonious blend of black, white and
Latino has always been a beacon for the rest of the world.

And what a city it was: as feverish as in the wild days of Mardi Gras,
as fiery as in the French Quarter's jazz clubs, as frivolous as, in
the words of novelist Walker Percy, one's chances are of seeing, in
its streets, "more nuns and naked women than anywhere else." It was a
city of poets, musicians, songwriters and filmmakers. Despite -- or
perhaps precisely because of -- its deeply Catholic roots in a largely
non-Catholic South, New Orleans, with its famed parties like the
"Southern Decadence Festival," came closer to being a Sodom and
Gomorrah than any other US city. Playwright Tennessee Williams chose
the French Quarter as the setting for his play "A Streetcar Named
Desire." Henry Miller once called New Orleans the "most pleasant place
in the country," the only city in the United States "where you can
feel like a civilized person." One of its most famous worshippers,
author William Faulkner, called New Orleans "a courtesan whose hold is
strong upon the mature, to whose charm the young must respond."

Bourbon Street in the heart of New Orleans' French Quarter
Wiechman Tourism Service
http://www.spiegel.de/img/0,1020,512968,00.jpg

Pleasure was written with a capital P here, between Bourbon, Royal and
Canal Streets, in Cajun restaurants and Creole street joints, and
pleasure was New Orleans' biggest selling point. New Orleans, a
thriving tourist center that attracted 10 million tourists last year
alone, used an apt slogan to advertise its charms: "Let the good times
roll!" While the region is second only to neighboring Texas as a US
center for the petroleum industry, and while a hoped-for high-tech
boom has been moving forward more slowly than anticipated, the city
had been successfully polishing its image as a conference center and
vacation hotspot.

New attractions were being developed in and around the picturesque
French Quarter. The bitter irony, at least from today's perspective,
is that most had some connection to water. The city had approved new
paddleboat steamers for pleasure cruises on its "Ol' Man River," the
Mississippi, and renovated its famous aquarium. In 1999, riverboat
casinos were joined by the city's first casino on solid ground.

But no matter what the city did in recent years to polish its image,
there was always one thing no one could hide: New Orleans -- even
before the great flood -- was a city with two faces. On the one hand,
there was the small but charming French Quarter, with its sinfully
expensive restaurants. But this was little more than a pretty façade,
especially in light of the city's vast, neglected sections whose
primarily black populations struggled along at or below the poverty
level. Unemployment in these neighborhoods was over 50 percent, making
New Orleans one of America's poorest cities.

New Orleans is a city with a rich history of catastrophes -- both of
the predictable and completely unexpected variety. The fact that it
was developed in hot, humid marshland filled with vermin seems to
completely contradict common sense. Greed was what brought New Orleans
to life in the first place, and deception is what's kept it alive ever
since. It all started in 1716, when a Scottish con man sold the land
to French investors as a "paradise" filled with gold. Two years later,
French King Louis XV ordered a colony established in the swamp and had
it built by slaves. The outpost changed hands over the years, first
going to the Spaniards and then back to the French. In the early
years, fires destroyed almost the entire city on two occasions. In
1803, Napoleon sold New Orleans, together with the entire Mississippi
region, to the Americans for $15 million, in a deal known as the
"Louisiana Purchase."





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